Posts Tagged ‘sebring’
X BOX 360 Wireless Racing Wheel Review
Before we get intimate with the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel, let’s take a short jaunt down memory lane – back to when the console war was between the Xbox and the PS2, not the 360 and PS3…
Sony’s track record with the PSOne and first-to-market strategy with the PS2 placed the mega-electronics company in a good spot for the “next” gen. No one really gave the freshman effort from Microsoft a chance in light of its PS competition, but even with the cards stacked against it, this new-fangled Xbox would catch on, and dominate the PS2 in a number of categories.
In a side-by-side comparison of Sony’s and Microsoft’s offerings, the Xbox would win unanimously as a complete console. Sony had publishing power, so the PS2 had an advantage in terms of software SKU’s, but besides this, the Xbox was solidified as the hardcore gamer’s system, with power to spare, an integrated hard drive, and a glorious online network.
But there was one missing piece of Microsoft’s puzzle – miniscule in many gamer’s eyes – that still made multi-console owners pull out their PS2 in favor of the Xbox: Force Feedback. As trivial as it may sound, those that live and die for racing games know its importance to the motorsports experience. Couple the Xbox’s lack of force feedback support with Sony having its killer-app Grand Turismo in-house, and Microsoft was shown up big-time, even with the solid Project Gotham Racing floating about. The release of Forza Motorsport late in the Xbox’s cycle gave Microsoft its own racing killer application, but the cries of “no force feedback?” still prevailed.
The big black box is past its prime, as all eyes are diverted to the Xbox 360. And yes, force feedback has eluded even MS’ next-gen console. That is, until now. Finally, the sensation of true force feedback will be realized in the first-party peripheral known as the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel.
We learned from a secret source some years ago that MS’ lack of force feedback was based on a lack of licensing, and not the inability to program such code into the software, or the console’s lacking in some manner. This makes sense, as this technology was readily available years ago.
But all of that is in the past, as Xbox 360 gamers now have the chance to purchase a first party racing wheel with Microsoft’s first attempt at force-feedback encoding on the included special edition of PGR 3.
Can Microsoft’s wheel compete with Fanatec’s stellar peripheral (sans true feedback)? Is force feedback worth the five-plus year wait? Is Forza 2 ever coming out? I doubt if I can answer that last question, but let’s get to those first two parts…
Features
- Real force feedback
- Integrated lap mount
- Detachable table mount
- Slip-resistant foot pedals
- Powered by the same wireless technology as the Xbox 360 wireless controller
- Dual rumble motors that perform in full wireless mode
- Play up to 20 hours wirelessly on a single battery pack charge
- Professional racecar cockpit-inspired design
Pre-race
It’s not often that I get into packaging design when discussing a piece of hardware, but setting up the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel brought something interesting to my attention. The packaging of the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel is elegant. Confusing for sure, but just as well thought out as this hunk of plastic. You’ll need at least a small amount of spatial awareness to uncork the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel. Tetris skills can’t hurt either. But it really is a wonderfully (the green vertigo Xbox 360 logo shroud itself should hypnotize people into purchasing it) efficient design that deserves merit.
You’ll probably stumble upon the table mount unit and power supply once the actual wheel is broken free of its corrugated confines. And you won’t even have to study the wheel to know that the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel is of the highest quality. You know… that quality that only comes with first party pieces. Yep, I’m talking about the separate table clamp piece.
The table clamp isn’t the normal piece of crap thrown in with most wheels. This sturdy piece of ABS is actually formed from two halves that are – get this – screwed together. The mount even uses high-quality star-type fasteners that you will find on the Xbox 360 controllers. The table clamp uses a unique fastening system that features a large plastic screw stopper (like a C-clamp) and a quick-release handle. Once the mount is cranked down with the screw, the quick release handle flips up and grabs the table or suitable mounting surface with a bear-trap-like grip. Rubber pips on the underside of the table clamp help to keep the piece from sliding around when force is being fed to the unit. Of course, if you decide to use the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel with the integrated lap pad, then all of the engineering that has gone into the table clamp is a non-factor. But you’ll really want to use the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel with the table clamp if at all possible, as the security of the wheel dramatizes the feedback and rumble effect.
Now is a good time to check out the other components of the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel, besides the wheel and pedal set, as I’m all about saving the best for last (thanks for the inspiration V. Williams). The power supply is of top-notch quality. It includes a separate power cable (easily replaceable if need be), and the boxed transformer is designed to sit on the floor, which means no big chunk taking up your precious power strip real estate. You’ll also find what looks to be a regular phone cable (the cool kids call it an RJ-11) which connects the wheel and foot pedal unit together, and two AA batteries. Energizer – not the barely-alkaline pieces of dung that come with most electronics.
So, some of you may be wondering what all of these cables are about if the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel has the word “wireless” in its title. The “force” of force feedback needs the juice of a 110 outlet; not the power contained in two AA or a small ni-mh pack. If you could care less about feedback, then you can disconnect the power supply and game where you please, but the foot pedals will still be tethered to the wheel no matter what. The good news in all of this is that there are options for just about everybody. If you always game with force feedback, the unit will run off of AC power and there’s no need for batteries or a rechargeable pack. If you go wireless and choose to use a 360 Rechargeable Battery Pack, simply plugging in the AC adapter will charge the pack (and charging doesn’t interfere with force feedback). And if you just want to use the batteries, well, they’re Energizers, and they keep going, and going, and going ad infinitum.
Now let’s jump into the wheel and foot pedals. The wheel unit, not surprisingly, is as thoroughly engineered and constructed as the additional, aforementioned bits of the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel. The wheel itself is a mixture of soft rubber in the business areas and hard plastic in the squared-off bottom portion. The squared bottom is reminiscent of F1 cars, and is done primarily to afford more thigh clearance in a tight cockpit. In the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel’s case, the squarish bottom allows fat-femured gamers to use the wheel with the integrated lap mount. Typical paddle shifters have a nice throw and good feel, but are not micro-switched. You’ll also find the important controller functions at your fingertips, including the navigation button, a D-pad, the four face buttons, and start/back. Each of these buttons can be assigned to a different function if need be. The battery pack is so seamlessly integrated into the side of the wheel unit, that you’ll miss it if not looking for it. And the communicator slot is around where the ignition would be in a normal car, which is another reason to pick up the wireless headset.
The lap pad is curved to accept the contour of the thighs. A rubber pattern that looks like it was fashioned after a tire tread helps to keep movement to a minimum. If you forgo the lap dance and go straight to the happy ending also known as the table clamp, then you’ll need to angle the wheel toward you and line up the two studs on both pieces. Once you rock the wheel back it will lock into place with a positive click. To quickly release the wheel, just press the bottom on the front of the clamp that was designed to look like a hood release switch (another nifty design touch).
The foot pedal unit is another highly stylized piece of the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel, featuring a large white plastic loop/foot rest surrounding a gray mounting ledge. Erupting from the gray base is an accelerator and brake that have surface pips to aid in traction, while at the same time mimicking the race car look. The accelerator has harder plastic pips and a brushed aluminum look, although I’m convinced that the piece is all plastic. The brake is outfitted with a slightly easier-to-grip material, and is finished in matte black. Both pedals feel like they require the exact same force to throw (I would have preferred a stiffer brake pedal), but the accelerator features a greater range of motion (as it should). The bottom of the pedal unit has larger rubber discs to help keep it planted. You’ll also find the receptacle for the RJ-11 wire and a means of routing it inconspicuously out of the tail end.
On the grid
Setting up the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel is fairly simple, and the existence of drivers built right into the PGR 3 disc makes it about as quick as any other peripheral installation. After the RJ-11 cable is connected, you can either connect the power supply to the back of the wheel or load it up with the AA batteries for wireless play. You can also throw in a rechargeable battery pack (not included) and charge it with the AC cable, or use a charged unit for wireless play.
A tap of the guide button powers up the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel, as evidenced by a glowing green Ring of Light and a left/right twitch of the wheel. Wirelessly connecting the wheel is the same process as a controller; just tap the connect button on the Xbox 360, and then on the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel (located next to the Communicator receptacle). A free quadrant will light up and is indicated on the 360 as well as on the hub of the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel. Up to four Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel’s can be connected wirelessly to an Xbox 360 at once, which equals local, multiplayer mayhem for those titles which support it.
Seat time
Since there’s no Forza 2 to be had at the moment (sniffle), my logical test disc was the force feedback-enabled PGR 3 that comes with the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel. Those that have played PGR 3 with the Madcatz wheel know that it is no easy task. Without any in-game setup, the wheel is all but useless in the behind-the-car views, making “over” steer an “under” statement. The Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel does about the exact same thing when the power supply is not connected. The somewhat loose-feeling wheel and lack of dead zone in PGR 3 will cause nearly any car in the game to get loose in a hurry. The pedals bank is good, and stays well planted, but again, I think the software is the limitation to the overall feel. The brake pedal is just way too sensitive, and with no way to adjust it, you’ll have to be quite dainty with your left foot.
The good news here is that if you aren’t playing with force feedback, you’ll have the ability to play up to thirty feet from your Xbox 360. The wireless technology in the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel is flawless and lightning quick, and there’s a good chance that you’ll forget within minutes that you are transmitting FCC-approved waves with every input.

Plug the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel in and things change, and in some ways drastically. You’ll immediately notice that the wheel is now under a slight but constant tension. Now crank the wheel in one direction, and it will snap back rather quickly to center. In fact, you can turn the wheel through its entire left/right range of motion and the force feedback will right the ship. Jump into the same event in PGR 3 and suddenly you feel like Mario Andretti in the Lola heydays. The force feedback is solidly programmed, and really changes one’s ability to control the car. The more natural feeling of the wheel fighting your every move makes car control, or in the name of Kudos, controlled chaos nearly intuitive if you possess a valid driver’s license. Yeah, the brake pedal is still way too touchy, but I’m sure set-up options for brake pressure and the like will be installed in the code by the time PGR 4 arrives. With the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel’s force feedback on and PGR 3 in the tray, driving is now like riding a bike, but not for the first time.
Need for Speed Carbon, the only other game that fully supports force feedback right now, is a different animal than PGR 3. Surprisingly, the cars control quite well with force feedback deactivated, and poorly with it enabled. Again, this all comes down to the programming. The force feedback programming in Carbon is nearly nonexistent, but the rumble is put to good use (which is the opposite of PGR 3, which has little rumble). Personally, I’d play Carbon with the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel unplugged, which doesn’t help me justify the unit’s $150 price tag much. Hopefully the soon-to-be-released Test Drive Unlimited and Forza 2 will have setup options or a better grasp of how cars are supposed to feel when the wheel is turned and the brake is applied.
The Bottom Line
With features like first-party quality, wireless connectivity, and true force feedback, the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel is tough to beat, with a catch. The catch is that any wheel peripheral without adjustable settings (a la Fanatec Speedster) is only as good as the software being used with it. PGR 3 is quite impressive when powered up, but unplug the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel for wireless functionality and you might as well play it with a controller. Strangely, the opposite holds true for Need for Speed Carbon.
Let’s keep our fingers crossed for Forza 2, as this seems to be the main application for which the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel was designed. I’m also curious what Codemasters will bring to market, and what Bizarre has up their sleeves. But as it stands, I consider the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel like an undervalued stock with the chance to blossom if the conditions are right. Investing in the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel now can’t hurt
Real Racers Talk FORZA 3
In these two new videos, F1 driver Stephane Sarrazin and Takata time attack driver James Elterman discuss the level of realism Turn 10 has packed into Forza Motorsports 3.
The story of James Elterman finding a cheap livery designer via the Forza community forums is inspiring, but I’m much more interested in watching Peugeot 908 Le Mans driver Stephane Sarrazin take a drive through courses he’s raced on in cars he’s familiar with. The fact that he can hop onto the game and clock a time one millisecond over his actual race time is simply mind-boggling.
Money Cheat Suggestion on Forza 3
The graphics, presentation and racing elements in Forza III are second to none-truly first rate. That is why it is such a colossal shame to see the game ruined by a flawed economic model. Before delving into the detail, let’s first agree on why many of us buy and play auto racing simulators. We like to buy and win cool cars. We like deciding between spending our money on tires or a turbo. We like to push the boundaries of physics with upgrades and tweaks.
We love the realism–especially when the car’s looks and handling can be modified to infinite degrees. We like to win. We enjoy the freedom of doing whatever the hell we want, from drifting to drag racing…from frantically leveling up to attempting to win the game with as few vehicles as possible. And more recently, we have come to like the online experience, where multiplayer racing has been joined by the purchase and sale of all manner of in-game products. And that’s where the story starts. In the olden days, when people walked to school through the snow barefoot (up-hill both ways), game developers had complete control over their games.
No online play meant that there were no variables to worry about, and games were finite. A $1 million car was hard to save for. Desirable cars could only be won via winning certain races. Things were challenging in the olden days, and it took many hours to make your way from a grossly upgraded Skyline into something actually built to race. And that made it fun. In Forza III, I bought an Exige 240 cup car for $5K when I was only a few races in. A handful of races later, I bought a Dyson Mazda race car for $50,000. I then bought three tunes for the Mazda (R1, R2, R3) for $10K each (applying them required more saving, obviously). Here I was, having earned less than $100K in the game, with cars that are practically unbeatable (by the AI) in the races for which they are eligible.
All I did was go to the auction, scroll down, and rapidly hit RB-LB to get to the newly posted cars. Search for bargain buyouts, and…..done. That’s it. Rinse and repeat. I’ve barely played the game, and I’ve acquired all the game’s hottest cars (except the Peugeot…still working on that). Add in the fact that there are no real penalties to having the game brake for you (i.e. the hardest part of racing), the end result is the ability to pretty much keep the throttle pinned, and steer around the course. If that’s not boring enough, you can hire a driver, ramp up all the assists to 100% bonus, go for a snack, and come back to a tidy sum. And that is not fun. Not at all. Detractors will say “it’s all about racing. Go race. It’s fun to race.” I say it’s all about the paragraph above where we talk about why we play these games. I like the feeling of accomplishment I get from winning a race where I really had to try hard, and the prize is a car I really want.
Today that thrill comes from me seeing someone put a $50K buyout on a million dollar car at auction. My pappy (the same fellow who went to the very cold, elevation-challenged school with no footwear) told me that if I criticize something, I should do it constructively, so here is what I would have preferred to see: ◦Make a few kickass cars only accessible by winning a few really challenging games (i.e. not for sale, and not “auctionable”). In other words, you have to outright earn them. ◦Give all cars a minimum auction buyout/bid value. Maybe 50% of retail value? ◦Make auto brake very costly to use (it turns zeros to heroes) ◦Give me a reason to win races. A car for a prize would be nice. Level up cars are linear…I’d like to choose which one I win. ◦Give me more than 100cr for a car when I sell it. Otherwise, I post it for $5K on the auction and….well, you know the rest.
Long story short, I consider these games complete when I have all of the best cars (with the best tunes) and all of the hardest races are won. Unfortunately, with the ability to earn easy money in-game, and spend it on auction bargains, “complete” happens far too soon in Forza III.
FORZA 3 Paint Guide
Practical advice on creating your motorsport masterpiece…
Racing and painting are a disparate pair of disciplines and rather like it’s counterpart, painting is all about practice. Here, though, we offer you a significant legup with a whole bunch of sound advice.
Odds are you’ve already got a gazillion livery ideas in your head; stop right there and go check out the editor. Look at the vinyl shapes you have access to and imagine creating something with them. If this is your first Forza car design we’d recommend opting for one of your simpler ideas. Something that’s going to be challenging, but not to the point of frustration. You should also start to think about which car the design is going to end up on, go and have a look at the car now… will the design work with the body shape? It’s essential to have a rough idea of the end product in your head before you begin. It’s worth making a sketch of your design before you begin. If only for reference purposes it’ll make the whole process much easier. If you’re feeling particularly creative you can even try knocking up a rough version in some visual software. It doesn’t really matter if you do this in something high-end like Illustrator or something as basic as MS Paint; either way it’ll give you a good idea of the complexity of the image and it’ll force you to start thinking about the kind of shapes needed to make up the image.
THE BEGINNING
01
YOUR CANVAS
02
First off, you’ll be needing a car. However, we suggest leaving your vehicle of choice to the side for now. Instead pick your ‘canvas car’, something you can use to create your key art. The best canvas cars are those with large flat hardtop roofs, like a Civic. Because of the camera angles, lack of body panel joins and other obstructions like air vents or door handles, the roof is the easiest part of the car to work on. Once you’ve got your car, paint it white (or black if your design is going to be light), it’ll make lining up shapes a lot easier. We also found that a grid came in handy to help with positioning. Don’t worry about getting the exact size yet, overall proportion is more important. As a rule of thumb it’s also better to make your design as big as possible now and then shrink it later on.
BASIC SHAPES
03
Start off by laying down the basic shape for your design. At this point don’t worry about the details, just concentrate on making the basic shape perfect using square blocks, triangles and circles to start to form an outline. All of the controls are shown at the bottom of the screen, but don’t forget that you can use the D-pad as well as the analogue stick to position, rotate and resize shapes. This is often a lot easier than using the stick and allows precise measurements; you can also check the X and Y values of each shape by glancing at the bottom of the screen. We’re making our base shape here solid black so that we can keep a thin black outline for the final version… this will not only help the design to stand out when it’s on the car, but it will also allow us to use the design on any colour bodywork we choose.
BUILDING BLOCKS
04
With your basic shape in place it’s time to start adding some colours and details. Concentrate on one area at a time and, whatever you do, be patient. Sort the easier areas first, take your time, stay aware of the overall composition, line up the shapes, be careful about what colours you choose and take a break if your eyes are starting to fade, making sure you remember to SAVE after every few shapes. It’s this middle section of any design that really hurts… it can take hours to get even the smallest section right and even then all you’re looking at is a wall of shapes. Sadly there are no short cuts to be taken, but you can speed up the process a little by using your recent colours palette and using the ‘stamp’ button instead of insert when you know you’ve got a row of similar shapes coming up.
COMPLEX SHAPES
05
We’re guessing that, whatever your design, the more complex areas all involve curvaceous shapes right? It doesn’t matter how many vinyl options the developer puts in, these are always going to require a little TLC to work. With each design you’d normally be looking to save layers (just in case that 1,000-per-limit is reached), but when it comes to curves don’t be afraid to throw more shapes than seem necessary. If you’re having problems we can suggest playing around with different vinyl shapes (the brackets on the fonts actually work really well) and experiment with the ‘skew’ option. This has been a lifesaver on numerous occasions.
GROUPS AND LAYERS
06
Always remember that everything you create is on its own layer and that the higher numbered layers always sit on top of the lower numbers covering them up. There are transparency options for each layer, with which you can create some awesome effects, but if you ignore that for now you can use layers to save lots of time. Once we were happy with the position we grouped the lighter layers together (by clicking in the left stick), cut them to the clipboard and then pasted them before the black outline on the layer list. It’s a cheap trick, but it cuts down on the hassle.
FINAL TWEAKS
07
When you’re nearing the end of your design take the time to go back through all of the shapes you’ve put down and make sure you’re happy with the way everything looks, you don’t want to get to the end and regret not changing something earlier. Change colours if necessary (as we did here with the armour joints), reposition layers, maybe delete a few of the unnecessary shapes and tighten everything up. It’s a better idea to do this now, when you have only got one design on the roof of a car, rather than trying to dig through hundreds upon hundreds of layers later on just to find one shape that’s slightly off. If you are struggling to pick out one shape on your image, try changing its colour to something that stands out while you re-position, then just swap the colour back when you are done.
VINYL GROUPS
08
With any layer selected press the Start button and scroll down the options until you see ‘Highlight All Layers’. With that done either click on the group or hit the Start button again and look for the option ‘Save Vinyl Group’. This allows you to lift your design off the car, give it a name, and save it to the hard drive. Now we’re finished, sort of. For this design we’re also going to go back into the layers and, group together the same colours and re-colour that group.
PICK A CAR
09
Hours worth of effort and we still haven’t even got a car to show for all our work… well, it’s now time to change all that. By now you’ve hopefully got a good idea of which car you want to garnish. There’s so many to choose from, so you want to pick one that will compliment your design. A great design can be ruined by a poor choice in car. If you are planning on adding external aftermarket parts like a bodykit make sure you buy them and install BEFORE you begin work on the car. The last thing you want is for your hard graft to be ruined by a bumper that’s a slightly different shape. As we mentioned before it’s also wise to ditch the stock colour (in this case metallic red) and give the entire car a lick of temporary white/black paint to help line up the layers.
CHOOSING VINYL
10
Features like this are incredibly easy to slap on thanks to a decent range of vinyl built into the game. Have a scroll through and you’ll find multiple tabbed sections running from basic shapes to intricate patterns. However, a word of warning, every other person on the planet has access to these. So, if you are planning on using them, try and make them a little different. If it’s lightning add another branch to the bolt or maybe try extending the lick of some flames. In this case we widened the two outer stripes with some additional layers and continued the star pattern. Tweaks like this are simple enough to carry out, but there’s a lot more satisfaction in knowing you’ve made the shape ‘yours’.
GRADIENTS
11
Gradients can be your best friend… and your worst enemy. They’re nice and easy to use and can produce striking effects, but can also look incredibly tacky, especially if they’re simply slapped across the full width of a car. It might be tempting to make that lime green/bright pink split, but in the end you’ll just look like a noob on the track. Gradients should be used for subtle effects, like the stripe here. If you’re planning on producing photo-quality vinyl (like the Pennywise car at the top corner of this page) you’ll need to become a master of the gradients and transparency levels. The main problem to watch out for (in regards to both gradients and transparency levels) is overlapping layers, it can take a long time to get everything lined up and looking good but it will definitely be worth it in the end.
IMPORTING VINYL GROUPS
12
When you’re ready to apply your own custom vinyl, highlight a blank layer and either hit the Start button or press A. You’ll see an option for importing a vinyl group which brings up a list of every piece of art you’ve saved. When you do import a vinyl group it’ll initially appear with the layers locked so you can re-position and resize (as you can with any layers you’ve grouped together), but be careful. Because, once imported, this behaves in the same way as other layers. When you need to select another group of layers you’ll lose the lock. Make sure the group is separate from the rest of the layers on the list if you can, it can make your life a lot easier later on when you’re making final tweaks.
WORKING WITH SIDES
13
Now that we’re finally happy with the roof composition we’re going to continue our arrows around to the sides. If your design covers multiple sides this is where things can start to get a little tricky. Lining up shapes can be awkward depending on the car, and you’ll also find that with some cars you’ll be able to mark sides even when they’re not selected. The main areas to watch out for are the bumpers; these can often be affected by layers on the roof. Remember, if elements of your design are symmetrical you only need to work on one side to begin with, as you can switch over and mirror all of the layers simply using the menus.
BODY PAINT
14
As you near the end of your design it’s a good idea to start thinking about body paint. Hopefully you’ll have a colour in mind already, but, as we found out with this car, you need to be prepared to accept that the colour might not look as impressive as you’d hoped. We originally planned for a sky blue finish, but it didn’t gel with the rest of the design. In the end we opted for a bright orange to complement the cartoon-look and lightened the arrow colours to fit. Remember that when you’ve got the colour wheel up you can also tap the triggers to see metallic and manufacturer stock options. Also, if you’ve used vinyl with cut-out shapes, make sure the car paint hasn’t created new problems…
LETTERING
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The game’s range of fonts are perfect for adding bumper stickers, website addresses, number plates and so on. When you’re placing letters keep a close eye on the X and Y values at the bottom of the screen, all it takes is for one letter to be slightly bigger or the spacing to be off and you’re left with an amateur livery. Of course if you’re not happy with what’s on offer within the vinyl menus you can create your own letters, but we found that we’ve only needed to do this when it came to recreating logos. If you are planning on making a logo treat it the same as any piece of art, build a big version of it on your canvas car and shrink it down for use as a vinyl group.
DETAILS
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All that’s left to do now is add a few small extras to finish off the design. One of the most important things you can learn with the livery editor is when to stop. There’s no shame in having sections of the car un-painted, if it works for your design. We’ve seen lots of good ideas that have been ruined by over-the-top clutter. If you are going to go down the manufacturer logo route make sure you stay true to your car and only add the logos specific to your engine upgrades. There’s nothing worse than seeing these logos slapped on for the sake of it. Sorted? Good, it’s time introduce your baby to the world…
FORZA 3 TUNING SPREADSHEET CALCULATOR
Feuerdog has done it again, his latest tuning calculator has been released for Forza 3.
Before continuing, please note that a tuning calc is not the end-all solution. It is generally a good starting point for a given build. That said, on to the goods:
The calc is here athttp: www.forzatraders.com/flash/ForzaMotorsport3CarSetupTool.swf , which should open in your browser. Click on download tuner, it should donwload on ur brwoser, keep clicking on the image until you reach the setup.
Open Office is an open source (free) alternative to Microsoft Office. I use it every day. The full suite can be downloaded from OpenOffice.org.
Open the file locally and save it to work with it. Here are Feuerdog’s instructions:
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
1. In the yellow fields you will select a drivetype(FF,FR, FA, MR, MA, RR, RA), and enter the vehicles weight(lbs) and front weight distribution. This info is availiable in the upgrade and car selection areas.
FF = Front engine, Front wheel drive.
MR = Mid engine, Rear wheel drive.
RA = Rear engine, All wheel drive.
etc.
2. In the blue fields you will get all of your suspension geometry settings instantly.
3. The orange fields are optional, but will add small compensations into the values to compensate for aerodynamic downforce and differing tire widths. Tire widths are the first three digit number in the tire size located in the tire width upgrade screen. If you do not want to compensate for aero or tires then leave these cells blank.
TUNING NOTES
- The calcs are not tested or designed for dragging or drifting.
- Front tires that are wider than rear tires may result in calc errors.
- The aero and tire compensation calcs are estimates, and untested for use with FM3.
- You can trick the calcs for understeer/oversteer by changing the front weight distribution input.
- Due to limitations in this older set of calcs, some cars will still feel “understeery”.
- I guarantee nothing.
- Always, always, double check your figures and settings. Even a single 1% of difference can have an impact on handling.
- Also keep in mind that some parts that you change in FM3(cooling upgrades for example) and weight reductions will change your weight distribution around. So even something as simple as an engine upgrade can change the weight bias of the chassis.
-Always recalc your suspension after upgrading parts!
- The aero and tire compensation calcs are OPTIONAL. They are very simple modifiers to begin with.
The aero compensations simply add spring stiffness to each axle.
The tire width compensation simply changes the weight bias to compensate for grip.
CALCULATOR NOTES
- The suspension calculators have always had mixed results with the R-classes in previous FMs. I don’t know if FM3 will be the same yet or not. I hope not. With the new blended classification and stiffness modifications the only real hurdle may be aerodynamics.
- The current state of the calcs is actually a little stiffer than I wanted to make them. There are several reasons for this:
1. A limitation in the calcs relating to dampers.
2. Stiffer springs help counter high aerodynamic downforce.
3. The spring strengths are realistically higher in FM3 anyways.
4. Stiffer springs helps limit roll, and therefore keeps camber settings low
FORZA : R-CLASS CARS TUNING
R2 PAGANI ZONDA
Tires: 29f 29r
Gears: final 3.88, 1st 3.08, 2nd 2.15, 3rd 1.60, 4th 1.26, 5th 1.05, 6th not used
Camber: -0.8f, -0.8r Toe: 0.3f, 0.2r Caster: 6.0
Anti-roll: 8.78f, 31.77r
Springs: 153.7f, 150.6r Rebound: 15.0f, 16.1r Bump: 1.7f, 1.6r
Areo: full downforce front and rear
Brakes balance: 47% front Pressure: 77%
Differential: accel 17%, Dec 7%
R1 #8 Audi R10 TDI
Tires:28f,28r
Gears: final 2.48, 1st 2.68, 2nd 1.65, 3rd 1.16, 4th .88, 5th not used
Camber: -0.8, -0.8 Toe: 0.4f, 0.2r Caster: 6.3 Anti-roll: 4.81f, 40.00r
Springs: 105.6 front and rear Rebound: 11.9f, 17.6r Bump: 1.5f, 2.0r
Areo: 407lb fr, 800lb rear Brakes: 47% to the front 70% pressure (80% w/ ABS)
Diff: 15% acc, 10% dec

Its great for Road America, Maple Valley and Nurburgring, good luck
R4 #1 Audi S4.
Tyres:26/27
Gears: FD 4.30 2.66 1.68 1.26 1.04 0.91 0.83
Alignment: -1.0 -0.9 0.0 0.0 7.0
Anti roll: 1.00/40.00
Springs: 221.1/260.5
Damping: 12.5/16.1 2.1/2.3
Aero: 109/255
Braking: 50% 118%
Differential: 19%/0% 50%/25% 48%/52%
R1 BENTLEY
Track: Maple Valley REVERSE
*All units are metric units
Front: 2.21bar
Rear: 2.55bar
F.D.: 3.11
1st :3.29
3rd:1.52
4th: 1.14
5-6th : NOT USED
Alignment
Camber front: -0.7
Camber Rear: -0.6
Toe Front: 0.2
Toe Rear: -0.3
Front Caster: 5.5
Anti Roll Bars
Front: 2.67
Rear: 38.30
Springs
Front: 51.2
Rear: 72.68
Rebound Damping
Front: 10.0
Rear: 13.3
Bump Stiffness
Front: 3.0
Rear: 4.4
DownForce
Front: 168.4kg
Rear: 328.2
Braking Force
Balance: 48%
Pressure: 115%
Differential
Rear Accel: 41%
Rear Decel: 27%
FORZA 3: S-CLASS CARS TUNING
NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
S998 KOENIGSEGG CC8S
Ratings
Speed: 7.1 Accel: 7.6 Brake: 6.3 Cornering: 6.3
Misc. Info
Track tuned for: speed tracks
Aids used: ABS, TCS recommended but not essential
Mods
Front Bumper: FM2
Rear Bumper: Stock
Spoiler: FM2
Engine Mods
Race Intake
Chassis Mods
All Race, except stock brakes and stock weight reduction
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: Race/Bridgestone
Wheel width: Max
Wheel diameter: Stock
Wheel make/model: Speedline Corse Type 2109
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 27/28
Gearing:
FD: 3.04
1: 2.98
2: 1.95
3: 1.45
4: 1.16
5: 1.02 (only needed on Nurburgring)
6: 0.10 (not used)
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -0.6/-0.7
-Toe F/R: 0.2/-0.1
-Caster: 4.0
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 20.60/28.90
Springs F/R: 234.3/288.4
Ride Height F/R: 3.7/3.7
Dampers (rebound): 8.9/12.8
Dampers (bump): 1.4/2.2
Downforce: MAX
Braking
Not adjustable
Rear Diff Accel: 14%
Rear Diff Decel: 21%
Lotus Exige & Exige Espionage
SETTINGS
Tires: 29/29
Gearing: Final Drive Ratio= 3.36
Camber: -0.7 / -0.9
Toe: 0 / -0.1
Caster: 5.5
Antil-Roll Bars: 10.63 / 15.92
Springs: 255.6 / 369.0
Ride Height: 4.5 / 4.5
Rebound: 6.7 / 7.1
Bump: 4.7 / 5.9
Aero: 150 / 280
Brake Balance: 48% Front / 52% Rear
Differential: 25% Acceleration / 10% Deceleration


S998 HKS TIME ATTACK EVO
Ratings
Speed: 5.8 Accel: 9.4 Brake: 6.3 Cornering: 6.0
Misc. Info
Track tuned for: General purpose
Aids used: ABS
Body Mods
not available
Engine Mods
Turbo: Stock
Chassis Mods
Brakes: Stock
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: Race/Firestone
Wheel width: 275/275 (+1)
Wheel diameter: Stock
Wheel make/model: Stock or Volk TE37/other lightest rims, up to you
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 27/27
Gearing:
FD: 4.30
1: 2.78
2: 1.78
3: 1.27 (1.21 for Tsukuba)
4: 0.99
5: 0.82
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -0.7/-0.9
-Toe F/R: 0.2/-0.5
-Caster: 5.0
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 3.00/32.00
Springs F/R: 270.1/280.2
Ride Height F/R: 2.6/2.6
Dampers (rebound): 9.7/7.2
Dampers (bump): 4.5/4.5
Front Diff Accel: 21%
Front Diff Decel: 0%
Rear Diff Accel: 75%
Rear Diff Decel: 20%
Torque Split: 48%/52%
S998 VW R32 *OP EDIT*
Engine & Power:
Intake: RACE
Exhaust: SPORT
Ignition: RACE
Fuel System: RACE
Cams/Valves: SPORT
Engine Block: RACE
Intercooler: SPORT
Turbo: RACE
Platform & Handling:
Everything RACE
Tires & Rims:
Avon RACE compound
Max Tire Width
First upgraded rim size
Volk TE37 rims
Body & Aero:
Front Bumper and Rear Bumper: Forza 2
Rear Wing: Forza 2
Side Skirts: Oettinger
Hood: Zender
Tuning:
Tires:
F: 28 R: 27
Gearing:
FD- 4.30
1st: 2.35
2nd: 1.54
3rd: 1.14
4th: 0.92
5th: 0.78
6th: 0.69
Alignment:
Camber: F: -0.6 R: -0.9
Toe: F: 0.1 R: -0.6
Front Caster: 5.1
Anti-roll Bars:
F: 2.95 R: 40.0
Springs:
F: 248.1 R: 309.9
Ride Height:
F: 4.5 R: 4.5
Damping:
Rebound: F: 10.1 R: 7.9
Bump: F: 3.8 R: 2.8
Aero:
F: 125 R: 150
Braking: (for ABS)
Force: 47%
Pressure: 109%
Differential:
Front Acceleration: 10%
Front Deceleration: 3%
Rear Acceleration: 31%
Rear Deceleration: 3%
Center: 45/55%
S998 C6 ZO6 CORVETTE
BUILD
Engine= standard
Chassis= all race including full weight reduction
Tires= race, kumho brand
wheels= standard with 20 inch upgrade
All Forza bumpers and rear wing
TUNE
TIRE PRESSURE=26 psi front and rear
GEARING=
1st=2.89
2nd=1.99
3rd=1.51
4th=1.20
5th=1.00
6th=.085
final drive=3.30
CAMBER
FRONT=-1.0
REAR= -0.8
TOE
FRONT=0.2
REAR=-0.3
CASTER=6.0
ANTI-ROLL
FRONT=35.09
REAR=40.00
SPRINGS
FRONT=256.7
REAR=165.8
RIDE HEIGHT=4.3 front and rear
REBOUND STIFFNESS
FRONT=12.0
REAR=12.0
BUMP STIFFNESS
FRONT=3.5
REAR=3.0
AERO= full front and rear
BRAKING
55% front, 120% (for ABS) 96% (no ABS)
DIFF= 10% accel, 5% decel.

S998 no-aero Dodge Viper
BUILD SHEET:
Engine; race intake, cams, and block
Suspension/Driveline; race everything here
Tires/Wheels; race avon tires, stock wheel size, BBS wheels type BBX VZ (the second rim)
Aero – None
TUNE:
Tire PSI; 28 front and 25 rear
Gearing; i dont do well with this, all i did was change final drive to 3.53
Camber; -.5 front and -.3 rear
Toe; +.6 front and -.3 rear
Caster; 5.3
Anti-Roll; 13.62 front and 19.23 rear
Springs; 382.8 front and 329.4 rear
Ride Height – 4″ front and rear
Rebound – 10.4 front and 5.2 rear
Bound – 7.2 front and 3.5 rear
Braking – driver preferance, i have mine at 47% front and 119% because I use ABS
Differential – Accel 13% Decel 29%
S998 Porsche Cayman
Engine & Power:
Powertrain Swap:AWD Type M96/70S
Engine Block: RACE
Intercooler: RACE
Platform & Handling:
Brakes: Race RACE
Springs & Dampers: RACE
Anti-roll Bars: RACE
Transmission: RACE
Clutch: RACE
Flywheel: RACE
Driveline: RACE
Differential: RACE
Weight Reduction: RACE
Tires & Rims:
Tire Compound: Goodyear RACE Tires
Tire Width: 255/25 / 285/30
Rim Size: 20″
Rim Style: Volk TE37
Body & Aero:
Front Bumper: FORZA2
Rear Wing: FORZA2
Rear Bumper: FORZA2
Tuning:
Tires: 29/29
Gearing:
FD- 3,49
1st- 2,45
2nd- 1,63
3rd- 1,23
4th- 1,01
5th- 0,89
6th- 0,80
Alignment:
Camber- F= -0.8 R= -0.6
Toe: F= 0.2 R= 0.0
Caster: 5,2
Anti-roll Bars: F= 8.05 R= 40.0
Springs: F= 256.3 R= 301.3
Ride Height: F= 4.5 R= 4.7
Damping:
Rebound: F= 6.8 R= 8.3
Bump: F= 2.1 R= 2.5
Aero: F= 125 R= 150
Braking: 49% / 110%
Differential:
Front Acceleration= 32%
Front Deceleration= 0%
Rear Acceleration=
Rear Deceleration=
Center Torque= 30/70%
44%44%
Lamborghini Countach LP5000
Build:
Engine:
Race Intake
Race Exhaust
Race Ignition
Race Fuel
Sport Cams
Race Block
Street Turbo
Performace and Handling:
All race parts except Street brakes
Tires:
Hoosier Race Slicks
Largest tire width (255/35R17 345/30R17)
Largest rim size with Centerline Rims
Downforce:
Forza Front and Rear Wing
Tune:
Tires: F:28 R:28
Gearing:
Final 3.30
1st 2.89
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.51
4th 1.20
5th 1.00
6th 0.85
Camber: Front: -0.5 Rear -0.4
Toe: Front -0.1 Rear -0.1
Caster: 4.5
Roll Bars: Front 13.02 Rear 20.03
Springs: Front 197.6 Rear 231.0
Ride Height: Front 2.9 in Rear 2.9 in
Rebound: Front 16.0 Rear 15.5
Bump: Front 2.5 Rear 2.0
Downforce: Front 123lb Rear 260lb
Differential: Front 23% Rear 20%
Ferrari 512 Testa Rossa
Build:
Engine (623hp/495lb-ft)
Race Intake, race exhaust, race ignition, race fuel, race cams, race block, race intercooler, street turbo
Performance and handling:
Sport brakes, sport flywheel, sport driveline all else race components
Tires:
Goodyear race slicks, F 255/35 R 335/30 tire width stock rim size Fikse Profil 13 rims
Forza Front bumper and rear wing
Tune
Tires: F 28 R 28
Gearing:
Final 3.30
1st: 2.89
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.51
4th 1.20
5th 1.00
6th 0.85
Camber F-0.5 R -0.4
Toe F-0.1 R -0.1
Caster 4.5
Sway Bar F 6.80 R 15.05
Springs F 326.0 R 299.9
Ride Height F 3.9 R 3.9
Rebound F 13.0 R 11.2
Bump F 3.8 R 4.5
Aero F 125 R 150
Differential Accel 11% Decel 20%
Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale
Car Settings:Tire Pressure
Front: 29
Rear: 29Gearing:
FD: 3.68
1st: 2.44
2nd: 1.85
3rd: 1.48
4th: 1.23
5th: 1.06
6th: 0.92Ride Height
Front: 5.2
Rear: 5.3
Rebound Damping
Front: 7.7
Rear: 12.5Bump Stiffness
Front: 5.0
Rear: 6.6
DownForce
Front: 125 lb
Rear: 150 lb.Braking Force
Balance: 48% front
Pressure: 107%
Alignment
Camber front: -0.9
Camber Rear: -.06
Toe Front: +0.1
Toe Rear: -0.1
Front Caster: 5.5
Anti Roll Bars
Front: 10.22
Rear: 13.41
Springs
Front: 427.2
Rear 615.8
Differential
Rear Accel: 36%
Rear Decel: 48%
S998 NISSAN SKYLINE R32
Class: S998 HP: 578 Torque: 531 Weight: 2,371 lbs.
Ratings
Speed: 5.9 Accel: 8.9 Brake: 6.3 Cornering: 5.9
Misc. Info
Track tuned for: fastest on tight technical tracks, but works well everywhere
Aids used: ABS
Mods
Front Bumper: FM2
Rear Bumper: Stock
Sides: Your choice, not stock
Spoiler: FM2
Hood: Street
Engine Mods
All Race (including race turbo), except stock cams, stock intercooler
Chassis Mods
All Race
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: Race/Bridgestone
Wheel width: max
Wheel diameter: Stock
Wheel make/model: Volk TE37
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 27/28
Gearing:
FD: 3.30
1: 3.21
2: 1.90
3: 1.42
4: 1.14
5: 1.04
6: 0.10 (not used)
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -0.9/-1.2
-Toe F/R: +0.4/+0.1
-Caster: 6.8
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 4.91/40.00
Springs F/R: 215.9/241.1
Ride Height F/R: both all the way down
Dampers (rebound): 19.1/18.4
Dampers (bump): 3.4/3.3
Downforce: 125/150
Braking
Balance: 46%
Pressure: 110%
Front Diff Accel: 14%
Front Diff Decel: 0%
Rear Diff Accel: 24%
Rear Diff Decel: 5%
Torque Split: 39%/61%
Audi RS4 Street
Tires:
Front = 28
Rear = 27
Gearing:
Final = 2.49
1st = 3.37
2nd = 2.34
3rd = 1.75
4th = 1.41
5th = 1.19
6th = 1.04
Alignment:
Front Camber = -1.1
Rear Camber = -0.9
Front Toe = 0.4
Rear Toe = -0.1
Front Caster = 5.4
Anti-Roll Bars:
Front = 1.50
Rear = 40.00
Springs:
Front = 279.1
Rear = 357.0
Front Height = 5.5
Rear Height = 5.6
Damping:
Front Rebound = 5.4
Rear Rebound = 8.3
Front Bump = 2.6
Rear Bump = 3.0
Aero:
Front = 125
Rear = 150
Braking:
Balance = 46% Front
Pressure = 120% (With ABS)
Differential:
Front Accel = 14%
Front Decel = 0%
Rear Accel = 39%
Rear Decel = 55%
Center = 36%/64%
This car is tuned on and for Suzuka Full.
S998 McLaren F1 Gt
Parts:
Engine Parts: All Stock
Handling Parts: All Racing -Except Brakes and Weight Reduction-
Wheels: Stock Tire Compound, 19 Rim Size, Rim Style: OZ Superleggera III
Aero: All racing
The Tune:
Tire Pressure:
28
29
Gearing:
3.69
2.77
1.68
1.30
1.09
0.97
0.82
Camper:
-0.2
-0.3
Toe:
0.4
-0.6
Caster:
6.2
Anti roll bars:
9.10
40.00
Springs:
216.3 lb
212.8 lb
Ride height:
3.1
3.7
Rebound Stiffness:
12.9
17.3
Bump Stiffness:
1.9
2.0
Aero:
202
360
Braking:
Standard
Differential:
Accel: 10%
Decel: 0%
S998 Porsche GT1 911 #65 Suzuka
tires:
stock tires
stock tire width
rims size: 19″
Brabus Monoblock IV
aero: full forza kit
Tune:
29 – 28
FD: 3.30
2.89
1.95
1.51
1.23
1.05
0.96
-0.7 / -0.4
+1.0 / 0.0
7.0
13.22 / 24.50
294.0 / 285.0
31. / 3.1
11.5 / 10.4
2.5 / 3.0
234 / 436
20 / 0
S998 Pagani Zonda #54 Mugello
Engine: all stock
handling:
all race except flywheel is stock, sport gear and stock brakes
tires: sport goodyear
rims: 20″ Brabus IV Multi
aero: forza front/rear wings
Tune:
30 – 29
FD: 3.30
-0.5 / -0.5
0.2 / 0.0
5.2
7.13 / 40.00
252.4 / 560.3
2.7 / 2.7
5.2 / 6.4
3.3 / 4.3
max downforce front/rear
53% / 0%
S998 #1 Peugeot 207 Super 2000
Power: 504 hp
Torque: 335 ft-lb
Weight: 1948 lbs
Engine & Power:
Race Intake
Race Fuel System
Race Engine Block
Street Intercooler
Race Turbo
Platform & Handling: (Race Everthing)
Race Brakes
Race Suspension
Race Anti-Rollbars
Race Transmission
Race Clutch
Race Flywheel
Race Driveline
Race Weight Reduction
Tires and Rims:
Stock Rim Size
Volk CE28N
______________
Tires Pressures:
Front: 28
Rear: 29
Gearing:
Final: 6.00
First: 1.81
Second: 1.17
Third: 0.90
Fourth: 0.75
Fifth: 0.66
Sixth: 0.60
Alignment:
Camber Front: -0.7
Camber Rear: -0.8
Toe Front: 0.2
Toe Rear: 0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Rollbars:
Front: 1.00
Rear: 40.00
Suspension:
Springs Front: 196.4
Springs Rear: 216.4
Ride Height Front: 3.1
Ride Height Rear: 3.1
Damping:
Rebound Front: 16.0
Rebound Rear: 19.0
Bump Front: 2.1
Bump Rear: 2.7
Downforce:
Front: 125
Rear: 335
Brakes:
Balance: 49%
Pressure 104%
Differential:
Front Accel: 17%
Front Decel: 0%
Rear Accel: 55%
Rear Decel: 7%
Torque-split: 45/55
2005 Lamborghini Gallardo (S998):
- 606 hp @8200 rpm
- 438 lb-ft @ 5300 rpm
- 2646 lbs
Upgrades
- Intake Upgrade: Race
- Exhaust Upgrade: Race
- Ignition Upgrade: Stock
- Fuel Upgrade: Stock
- Cams/Valves Upgrade: Race
- Block Upgrade: Race
- Intercooler Upgrade: Stock
- Turbo Upgrade: Stock
- Centri SC Upgrade: Stock
- Brake Upgrade: Race
- Springs/Dampers Upgrade: Race
- Anti-Roll Bars Upgrade: Race
- Transmission Upgrade: Race
- Clutch Upgrade: Race
- Flywheel Upgrade: Race
- Differential Upgrade: Race
- Weight Reduction Upgrade: Race
- Tire Compound: Race- Goodyear
- Tire Width: 255/30R19 / 315/30R19
- Rim Size: 19 inch
- Wheels: Zender Dynamic
- Front Bumper: Forza Race
- Rear Bumper: Forza Race
- Spoiler: Forza Race
Tune
- Tire Pressure: 28/29
- Rear Gear: 3.90
- 1/2/3/4/5/6 gear ratios: 2.89/1.99/1.51/1.20/1.00/.85
- Camber: -0.7/-0.8
- Toe: .1/0
- Caster: 5.5
- Anti-Roll Bars: 13.83/19.15
- Springs: 382.1/497.0
- Ride Height: 3.4/3.2
- Rebound: 8.9/9.6
- Bump: 6.5/8.1
- Downforce: 125/150
- Brake Balance: 48% front
- Brake Pressure: 90%
- Front Differential: 35/0
- Rear Differential: 80/70
- Torque Split: 25/75
S998 Porsche 996 GT3
TUNE
Tires: 27/28
Gearing:
FD: 4.25
1: 2.20
2: 1.45
3: 1.04
4: 0.81
5: 0.71
6: 0.65
Alignment:
Camber: -0.6/-0.4
Toe: 0.0/-0.2
Caster: 1.0
Anti-Roll: 13.00/33.00
Springs:
Rate: 200.4/300.1
Ride Height: 5.3/5.2
Damping:
Rebound: 13.5/17.5
Bump: 1.9/2.6
Aero: N/A
Brakes: 49/115
Differential:
Acell: 10%
Decell: 99%
1999 Lamborghini Diablo GTR
- 717 hp @ 7800 rpms
- 523 lb-ft @ 6200 rpms
- 3067 lbs
Upgrades
- Intercooler Upgrade: Sport
- Turbo Upgrade: Stock
- Centri SC Upgrade: Sport
- Brakes Upgrade: Race
- Transmission Upgrade: Race
- Driveline Upgrade: Race
- Tire Compound: Race- Goodyear
- Tire Width: 255/40R18 / 345/40R18
- Rim Size: 18 inch
- Wheels: Zender Dynamic
- Front Bumper: Forza Race
- Rear Spoiler: Forza Race
- Rear Bumper: Forza Race
Tune
- Tire Pressure: 28/28
- Rear Gear: 3.90
- 1/2/3/4/5/6 gear ratios: 2.89/1.99/1.53/1.27/1.08/.93
- Camber: -0.5/-0.8
- Toe: 0/-0.1
- Caster: 5.5
- Anti-Roll Bars: 22.07/24.25
- Springs: 416.8/586.5
- Ride Height: 2.9/3.0
- Rebound: 8.0/11.5
- Bump: 6.4/9.7
- Aero: 172/291
- Brake Balance: 48%
- Brake Pressure: 90%
- Differential: 55/45
S998 Lamborghini 1967 Miura P400
Tune
Tyres: 30/ 28
Gears: F. 3,56
1. 2,76
2. 1,97
3. 1,43
4. 1,08
5. 0,94
6. 0,83
Chamber: -0.9/ -0.5
Toe: 0.0/ -0.1
Castor: 7.0
Antirollbars: 38.5/ 10.0
Springs: 185.4/ 243.5
Ride height: 4.5/ 4.6
Dampers: rebound 12.0/ 16.9 bump 1.0/ 1.2
Aero: Full downforce
Diff: Acc.18 Dec. 20
1966 Ford GT40

The Build
Engine and Power
Intake – Race
Exhaust – Race
Ignition – Race
Fuel – Race
Cams & Valves – Race
Block – Race
Intercooler – Race
Turbo – N/A
Supercharger – Race
Swap – Yes
Platform and Handling
Brakes – Sport
Springs & Dampers- Race
Anti-roll – Race
Transmission – Race
Clutch – Race
Flywheel – Race
Driveline – Race
Differential – Race
Weight Reduction – Race
Tires and Rims
Tire – Stock
Width – Full
Rim Size – Stock
Rim – Volk CE28N
Body and Aero
Front bumper – Forza Race
Rear wing – Forza Race
Rear bumper – Stock
The Tune
Tire pressure – 53/55
Gearing
Final drive – 3.00
(1st) – 2.50
(2nd) – 1.33
(3rd) – .94
(4th) – .83
(5th) - Not used
(6th) – Not used
Alignment
Front Camber – -0.9
Rear Camber – -0.6
Front Toe – 0.1
Rear Toe – -0.4
Caster – 7.0
Anti-Roll Bars
Front – 35.90
Rear – 1.50
Springs
Front – 211.7
Rear – 293.3
Ride height
Front – 3.7
Rear – 3.7
Damping
Front rebound – 13.4
Rear rebound – 16.8
Front bump – 2.0
Rear bump – 2.0
Aero
Front – 125
Rear – 150
Braking
Bias – N/A
Presure – N/A
Differential
Rear
Accel – 8%
Decel – 0%
FORZA 3: A-Class Cars Tuning
NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
A850 Lancer Evo X GSR
BUILD
Engine: Street Engine Block, Sport Fuel System, Sport Ignition, Race Exhaust, Sport Intake
Handling: Race Everything
Wheels: Race Avons, Full Width (265’s); Work Equip 03 Rims (Stock Size)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 28/28
Gearing:
FD: 5.27
1: 1.97
2: 1.22
3: 0.87
4: 0.67
5: 0.57
6: 0.51
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-0.7
Toe: +0.2/+0.1
Caster: 5.5
Anti-Roll: 1.00/4.00
Springs:
Rate: 233.6/295.1
Ride Height: 5.0/5.3
Damping:
Rebound: 6.0/19.5
Bump: 2.2/2.9
Aero: Full Downforce
Brakes: 47/Pressure is Driver Preference
Differential:
Front: 20/0
Rear: 41/1
Split: 34/66
2004 Volkswagen Beetle

Build: 345hp, 337lb-ft, 3241lbs
Engine: BJS Engine Swap, Sport Intake, Exhaust & Fuel System, Street Turbo
Handling: Race Everything
Wheels: 18″ First Width HRE 546R’s with Avon Race Slicks (215/40R18 – 215/40R18)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Wing & Rear Bumper, Caractere Side Skirts
Tune: Grip
Tires: 28/27
Gearing:
FD: 2.00
1: 5.86
2: 3.14
3: 2.07
4: 1.57
5: 1.31
6: 1.13
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-0.8
Toe: 0.3/-0.1
Caster: 5.6
Anti-Roll: 7.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 266.6/244.4
Ride Height: 5.2/5.2
Damping:
Rebound: 7.5/8.0
Bump: 2.5/3.0
Aero: 125/150
Brakes: 47/118
Differential:
Front: 25/0
Rear: 35/35
Split: 35/65
1970 Dodge Challenger R/T Hemi
BUILD
Engine: RWD Powertrain Swap – Mopar 540 Hemi, Race Everything Else
Handling: Stock Brakes, Race Everything Else
Wheels: Street BFGoodrich, 255/255 Width; Work – Equip ‘03 Rims (Stock Size)
Aero: Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 27/28
Gearing:
FD: 2.58
1: 3.15
2: 2.03
3: 1.42
4: 1.11
5: 0.98
6: 0.85
Alignment:
Camber: -0.6/-0.5
Toe: 0.0/0.0
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 36.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate:262.0/131.3
Ride Height: 6.0/6.0
Damping:
Rebound: 16.7/18.7
Bump: 3.3/1.7
Aero: Full Rear Downforce
Brakes: N/A
Differential:
Acell: 11%
Decell: 1%
Nissan Skyline R34
The Settings
Tire Pressure
Front: 27
Rear: 26
Gearing
Final Drive: 3.78
1st: 3.10
2nd: 1.97
3rd: 1.46
4th: 1.19
5th: 1.02
6th: 0.89
Alignment
Camber Front: -1.0
Camber Rear: -0.8
Toe Front: 0.3
Toe Rear: -0.1
Front Caster: 5.5
Anti-roll Bars
Front: 5.93
Rear: 40.00
Springs
Front: 287.2
Rear: 352.3
Ride Height
Front: 6.9
Rear: 7.0
Rebound Damping
Front: 5.3
Rear: 8.1
Bump Stiffness
Front: 3.2
Rear: 3.4
Downforce
Front: 125
Rear: 150
Braking Force
Balance: 45% Front
Pressure: Adjust to Suit
Differential
Front Accel: 16%
Front Decel: 0%
Rear Accel: 34%
Rear Decel: 55%
Center Torque: 38% / 62%
A850 TVR Tuscan-S

Tune Type: Grip
Track type: Medium/long
Tyre Compound: (Sport BF Goodrich)
TUNE:
Tyres: F27 R27
Gearing: FD:4.34, 3.10, 1.66, 1.16, 0.88, 0.76, 0.68
Camber: -1.2, -0.8
Toe: 0.3, 0.3
Castor: 1.5
Anti-Roll Bars: 24.47, 14.97
Springs: 264.9, 274.9
Ride Height: 3.9, 4.1
Damping: 10.5, 7.5, 4.6, 3.1
Aero: 125, 240
Braking: n/a
Differential: RA 13%, RD 16%
A850 Chevrolette Corvette C6 ZO6 Ring Tuned
Car : 2006 Corvette Z06
Engine & Power:
Intake: STOCK
Exhaust: STOCK
Ignition: STOCK
Fuel System: STOCK
Cams & Valves: STOCK
Engine Block: STOCK
Intercooler: STOCK
Turbo: STOCK
Centrifugal Supercharger: STOCK
Positive Displacement Supercharger: STOCK
Powertrain Swap: STOCKRear Acceleration= 9
Rear Deceleration= 19
Platform & Handling:
Brakes: RACE
Springs & Dampers: RACE
Anti-roll Bars: RACE
Transmission: RACE
Clutch: RACE
Flywheel: RACE
Driveline: RACE
Differential: RACE
Weight Reduction: STOCK
Tires & Rims:
Tire Compound: STOCK
Tire Width: MAX WIDTH
Rim Size: STOCK
Rim Style: HRE 546R
Body & Aero:
Front Bumper: FORZA2
Rear Wing: FORZA2
Rear Bumper: FORZA2
Tuning:
Tires: F=29 R=29
Gearing:
FD- 3.74
1st- 2.89
2nd- 1.99
3rd-1.51
4th- 1.20
5th- 1.00
6th- 0.85
Alignment:
Camber- F= -0.8 R= -0.6
Toe- F= 0.3 R= -0.1
Caster- 5.3
Anti-roll Bars: F= 9.59 R= 11.59
Springs: F= 430.8 R= 380.5
Ride Height: F= 4.6 R= 4.7
Damping:
Rebound: F= 8.5 R= 7.0
Bump: F= 7.0 R= 5.5
Aero: F= 125 R= 150
Braking: 49% / 110%
Differential:
A850 Buick Regal

BUILD
Engine: LS7 Powertrain Swap, Race Turbo, Race Intercooler, Race Block, Race Cams, Race Fuel, Race Ignition, Race Exhaust, Race Intake
Handling: Sport Brakes, Sport Driveline, Race Everything Else
Wheels: Street Yokohomas, 265/275 Width; Volk – CE28N Rims (Stock Size)
Aero: Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 29/27
Gearing:
FD: 2.65
1: 2.57
2: 1.58
3: 1.27
4: 1.03
5: 0.92
6: 0.85
Alignment:
Camber: -0.7/-0.6
Toe: +0.2/+0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 27.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 347.7/285.0
Ride Height: 8.2/8.2
Damping:
Rebound: 16.4/19.4
Bump: 1.3/2.1
Aero: Full Rear Downforce
Brakes: N/A
Differential:
Acell: 11%
A850 Toyota Supra RZ

BUILDTUNE
Engine: Sport Exhaust,
Handling: Sport Flywheel, Race Everything else
Wheels: Race Firsetones, 265/285 width, Volk-TE 37’s (stock size)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Forza Rear Wing, AB Flug Side Skirts
Tires: 28/28
Gearing:
FD: 4.17
1: 2.32
2: 1.53
3: 1.09
4: 0.85
5: 0.70
6: 0.61
Alignment:
Camber: -0.7/-0.4
Toe: 0.1/0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 9.00/14.50
Springs:
Rate: 265.2/214.4
Ride Height: 5.3/5.3
Damping:
Rebound: 13.2/11.5
Bump: 3.3/1.7
Aero: 125lbs Front
150lbs Rear
Brakes: 53/105
Differential: 10/20
A850 Vauxhall VX220
Tune :
Tyres 30/30
Gears F 2.51
1. 3.38
2. 2.15
3. 1.72
4. 1.40
Aligment Camber -0.8/-0.4 Toe 0.0/0.0 Castor 5.2
Antirollbars 7.50/20
Springs 148.7/183.2
Rideheight 4.8/4.9
Damping Rebound 10/15 Bump1.4/1.4
Downforce Full
Brakes 48% in front 109% pressure
Diff 15/15
A 850 Cadillac CTS-V
Tune
Tire Pressure
Front: 29
Rear: 27
Gearing
Final Drive: 3.32
1st: 3.55
2nd: 2.02
3rd: 1.43
4th: 1.14
5th: 0.96
6th: 0.84
Alignment
Camber Front: -0.7
Camber Rear: -0.7
Toe Front: 0.0
Toe Rear: -0.2
Front Caster: 4.8
Anti-roll Bars
Front: 13.21
Rear: 12.06
Springs
Front: 460.1
Rear: 390.3
Ride Height
Front: 6.2
Rear: 6.2
Rebound Damping
Front: 6.5
Rear: 5.9
Bump Stiffness
Front: 3.1
Rear: 2.8
Downforce
N/A
Braking Force
Balance: 53%
Pressure: 115% (ABS) 92% Without
Differential
Front Accel: 14%
Front Decel: 34%
A850 Subaru WRX STI ‘05
Tires: 28/28
Gearing:
FD: 6.00
1: 1.89
2: 1.05
3: 0.74
4: 0.58
5: 0.48
6: 0.10
Alignment:
Camber: -0.7/-0.6
Toe: +0.3/+0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 1.60/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 434.4/492.4
Ride Height: 5.9/5.9
Damping:
Rebound: 14.2/19.1
Bump: 2.9/2.0
Aero: Full Downforce
Brakes: 54/Pressure is Driver Preference
Differential:
Front: 30/0
Rear: 45/5
Split: 30/70
A850 RENAULT R5 TURBO
Ratings
Speed: 4.4 Accel: 7.2 Brake: 6.8 Cornering: 6.1
Body Mods
Front Bumper: FM2
Rear Bumper: Stock
Spoiler: FM2
Engine Mods
Engine/Drivetrain swap: Stock
Intake: Race
Exhaust: Race
Ign.: Race
Fuel: Race
Camshaft: Stock
Block: Race
Intercooler: Stock
Turbo: Race
Chassis Mods
All Race
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: Race/Bridgestone
Wheel width: max
Wheel diameter: 2nd largest (16″ front)
Wheel make/model: OZ Gemini
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 30/29 (change rear pressure to 55 psi if sim tires are turned off)
Gearing:
FD: 2.55
1: 3.00
2: 2.03
3: 1.53
4: 1.21
5: 0.10 (not used)
6: 0.10 (not used)
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -1.4/-0.7
-Toe F/R: 0.3/-0.2
-Caster: 6.9
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 9.49/20.89
Springs F/R: 130.5/180.6
Ride Height F/R: 5.2/5.4
Dampers (rebound): 10.1/19.3
Dampers (bump): 1.8/2.8
Downforce:125/145
Braking
Balance: 54%
Pressure: 105%
Rear Diff Accel: 11%
Rear Diff Decel: 14%
A850 Lotus Exige
Engine and Power
Race Exhaust
Sport Ignition
Platform and Handling
Race everything
Wheels and Tires
Avon Race Tires
Max Width Tires on Stock Wheels
Body and Aero
Forza Wing and Front
Settings
Tires
F: 30psi R: 30psi
Gearing
FD- 3.37
1st- 3.75
2nd- 2.65
3rd- 2.15
4th- 1.80
5th- 1.55
6th- 1.35Alignment
Camber
F: -0.7 R: -0.6
Toe
0 all around
Caster
5.6
Anti-Roll Bars
F: 20.83 R: 22.32
Springs
Springs
F: 138.6 R: 273.3
Ride Height
F: 4.8 R: 4.7
Damping
Rebound Stiffness
F: 7.8 R: 10.4
Bump Stiffness
F: 3.1 R: 5.1
Aero
F: 178 R: 306
Braking
Balance = 48% Front
Pressure= 100%
Differential
Accel: 13%
Decel: 30%
A-850 Saleen S281 E
Tires
Tire Pressure : 29 PSi
Tire Pressure : 28 PSi
Gearing
Final Drive : 5.90
1st : 1.65
2nd : 1.01
3rd : .73
4th : .61
5th : .55
6th : .50
Alignment
Camber Front : -0.5
Camber Rear : -0.4
Toe Front : .2
Toe Rear : 0
Front Caster : 4.7
Anti-Roll
Anti-Roll Bars Front : 29.30
Anti-Roll Bars Rear : 21.20
Springs
Springs Front : 342.2
Springs Rear : 403.2
Ride Height Front : 4.5
Ride Height Rear : 5.0
Damping
Rebound Stiffness Front : 13.4
Rebound Stiffness Rear : 10.7
Bump Stiffness Front : 1.8
Bump Stiffness Rear : 2.6
Aero
Aero Downforce Front : 125
Aero Downforce Rear : 138
Braking
Braking Force : 48%
Braking Pressure :112 %
Differential
Front Differential Acceleration : 10%
Front Differential Deceleration : 4%
A849 / A850** – 1968 Barracuda S
Tires:
Tire Pressure – 28 / 27
Gears: ( Drives only in 3rd & 4th )
Final Drive – 6.00
1st – 1.45
2nd – 0.80
3rd – 0.52
4th – 0.43
5th – 0.38
6th – 0.35
Camber:
FR – -0.5
RR – -0.6
Toe:
Front – 0.0
Rear – 0.0
Front Caster:
Angle – 7.0
Anti-Roll Bars:
Front – 37.2
Rear – 15.0
Springs:
Front – 235.0
Rear – 188.6
Ride Height:
Front – 6.9
Rear – 7.3
Rebound Stiffnes:
Front – 12.5
Rear – 20.0
Bump Stiffnes:
Front – 1
Rear – 1
Aero:
Rear – 150
Differential:
Rear Acell. – 12
Rear Deacell. – 0
A849 – Better handling
A850** – Better breaking
A850 Porches 911T 3.3.
A850 Porches 911T 3.3.

Build.
Sport exhaust, Sport ignition.
Race handling.
Race Avons, max width, Stock rims, Volk SE37K.
No aero.
Tune.
Tyres: 28/28
Gearing: 3.37 2.50 1.56 1.17 0.98 0.89 0.82
Alignment: -0.4/-0.3 0.1/-0.1 5.0
Anti roll bars: 15.00/35.00
Springs: 211.6/231.4 5.5in/5.5in
Damping; 13.5/14.0 2.2/2.2
Aero: N/A
Braking: 50%/108%
Differential: 45%/40%
A850 Shelby Cobra.

Build.
Stock engine parts.
Stock brakes, Stock flywheel, Street driveline, Stock weight. Rest are Race.
Street firestones, Stock width, Max rims, Stock alloys.
Tune.
Tyres: 29/27
Gearing: 4.06 2.16 1.19 0.92 0.80 0.74 0.70
Alignment: -0.7/-0.5 0.0/0.0 6.0
Anti roll bars: 24.95/1.00
Springs: 240.7/233.6 5.2/5.0
Damping; 13.7/13.6 2.0/1.3
Aero: N/A
Braking: N/A
Differential: 30%/49%
A850 911 Carrerra 1973.

Build
Race Exhaust, Race ignition, Race fuel, Race block.
Sport driveline, Race rest.
Race Avons, max width, 17inch rims, stock alloys.
No aero.
Tune.
Tyres: 30/29
Gearing: 3.10 3.14 2.77 1.36 1.13 0.99 0.85
Alignment: -0.8/-0.6 0.1/0.0 5.5
Anti roll bars: 4.60/12.06
Springs: 130.3/162.0 7.1/7.2
Damping: 9.2/9.5 3.2/2.5
Aero: N/A
Braking: 49% 113%
Differential: 30%/27%
A850 BMW M3-GTR
Speed – 5.5
Accel – 5.1
Braking – 6.0
Handling – 5.9
The Build
Engine and Power
All Stock
Platform and Handling
Brakes - Sport
Springs & Dampers – Race
Anti-roll – Race
Transmission – Race
Clutch – Race
Flywheel – Stock
Driveline – Race
Differential – Race
Weight Reduction – Race
Tires and Rims
Tire – Race Firestone
Width – N/A
Rim Size – Stock
Rim – Volk TE37
Body and Aero
Front bumper – BMW Race
Rear wing – BMW Race
Rear bumper – BMW Race
The Tune
Tire pressure – 29/28
Gearing
Final drive – 4.15
(1st) – 2.70
(2nd) – 1.86
(3rd) – 1.42
(4th) – 1.14
(5th) – .96
(6th) – .85
Alignment
Front Camber – (-0.8)
Rear Camber – (-0.7)
Front Toe – 0.0
Rear Toe – 0.0
Caster – 5.1
Anti-Roll Bars
Front – 10.07
Rear – 7.05
Springs
Front – 309.3
Rear – 230.0
Ride height
Front – 7.3
Rear – 7.8
Damping
Front rebound – 10.0
Rear rebound – 8.5
Front bump – 4.0
Rear bump – 3.5
Aero
Front – 213
Rear – 349
Braking
Bias – N/A
Presure – N/A
Differential
Rear
Accel – 34%
Decel – 30%
A850 Nissan 432R
Tune:
Tire Pressure – 27/29
Final Drive – 3.73
1st – 2.93
2nd – 1.65
3rd – 1.22
4th – 0.99
5th – 0.85
6th – 0.76
Camber – -0.9/-0.7
Toe – 0.2/0.1
Front Caster – 6.1
Anti-roll Bars – 5.50/40.00
Springs – 159.1/178.5
Ride Height – 5.7/5.8
Rebound Stiffness – 14.5/15.0
Bump Stiffness – 1.9/2.0
Aero – xxx/150
Braking Balance – 46%
Braking Pressure – 114%
Front Diff. – 12/0
Rear Diff. – 55/40
Center Torque – 38/62
FORZA 3: B-CLASS CARS TUNING
NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
B-Class Audi Sport Quattro
|
Free Tune:
Tune:
Make: Audi
Model: Sport Quattro Tuned by: Dewstain and YoYoMaStEr 911 Painted by: Dewstain Buildsheet:
[UPGRADES] Engine and Power: Street Intake Street Intercooler Platform and Handling: All Race Parts except: Sport Weight Reduction Tires and Rims: Toyo Sport Tire Compound +1 Tire Width (245 Front/Rear) +2 Rim Size (17″) Fikse Profil 13 Body and Aero: Forza Front Bumper Forza Rear Wing [TUNE]
Tires: Front = 28 Rear = 29 Gearing:
Final = 3.85 1st = 2.89 2nd = 1.99 3rd = 1.51 4th = 1.20 5th = 1.00 6th = 0.85 Alignment:
Front Camber = -0.8 Rear Camber = -0.6 Front Toe = 0.4 Rear Toe = -0.2 Front Caster = 5.5 Anti-Roll Bars:
Front = 4.00 Rear = 40.00 Springs:
Front = 230.2 Rear = 336.5 Front Height = 5.5 Rear Height = 5.5 Damping:
Front Rebound = 10.6 Rear Rebound = 6.2 Front Bump = 3.6 Rear Bump = 3.3 Aero:
Front = 125 Rear = 150 Braking:
Balance = 47% Pressure = 96% Differential:
Front Accel = 10% Front Decel = 0% Rear Accel = 70% Rear Decel = 40% Torque Split = 33%/67% Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 6 GSR
Upgrades: Engine: Sport Intercooler Handeling: Full Race except for street driveline Tires: Sport BFGoodrich, Rims 18 inches Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Erebuni Street Side Skirts (The first one), Forza Wing
The Tune: Tires: Front: 29 Rear: 29 Gearing: Final Drive: 3.70 1st: 3.65 2nd: 2.21 3rd: 1.56 4th: 1.24 5th: 1.02 6th: Not used Alignment: Camber: Front: -0.6 Rear: -0.6 Toe: Front: 0.3 Rear: -0.2 Caster: 5.6 Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4.98 Rear: 36.48 Springs: Front: 418.3 Rear: 475.8 Ride Height: Front: 4.6 Rear: 4.7 Rebound: Front: 8.7 Rear: 8.3 Bump: Front: 3.6 B700 92 NSX-R ECT Rear: 3.9 Aerodynamics: Front: 95 Rear: 110 Braking: Balance: 43% Pressure: 120% Differential: Front: Acceleration: 15% Deceleration: 0 Rear: Acceleration: 35% Deceleration: 20% Torque Split: 37%/63% B700 92 NSX-R ECT Build: Engine: stock Platfrom & Handling: Race Brakes Race suspension Race Roll Bars Race Tranny Race clutch Stock flywheel Sport Driveline Race Diff Sport Weight Tires: Sport Pirelli 2nd width Rim Size 3rd choice 18″/19″ Wheel style: Volk te37 Aero: all Race Tires pressure: 29/28 Gearing Fd 4.15 1st 3.84 2nd 2.54 3rd 1.72 4th 1.23 5th 1.01 6th 0.84 Alignment Camber -0.5/-0.3 toe 0.2/-0.1 Caster 6.4 Roll bars 19/29.5 springs 351/348 ride height 3.9/3.9 Rebound 6.5/10.5 Bump 4.0/5.0 aero 125/265 Brakes Balance 48% presssure 102% Diff. Accel 26% decel 22% B700 1969 CHEVY CAMARO SS (SPEED TUNED) Class: B700 HP: 965 Torque: 846 Weight: 2,572 lbs. Ratings Misc. Info Engine Mods Chassis Mods Tires Tuning: Gearing: Alignment Anti-roll Bar F/R: 40.00/29.00 Springs F/R: 220.9/171.9 Dampers (rebound): 10.5/9.2 Rear Downforce: 150 Braking Rear Diff Accel: 27% Notes: Never shift below 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd gears are only needed for launching from a standstill. For hotlapping with this car, turn sim tire wear off and use the high tire pressures posted above. If you are racing with sim tire wear turned on, use the optional tire pressures in parentheses. Ford Mustang 05 GT Tune Settings:
B697 FERRARI 250 GTO
Make/Model: 1964 Ferrari 250 GTO
Class: B697 HP: 681 Torque: 540 Weight: 2,132 lbs. Ratings Misc. Info Mods Engine Mods Chassis Mods Tires Tuning: Gearing: Alignment Anti-roll Bar F/R: 40.00/33.50 Springs F/R: 172.1/195.1 Dampers (rebound): 11.1/10.5 Rear Downforce: 150 Braking Rear Diff Accel: 24%
This free tune is also accompanied by a slightly revised paint for this car. The SW2 sellers and I will put as many of these paintjobs on the AH as needed for the price of the car beginning later tonight. I’m not sure what that price is, but I believe it’s somewhere between 30K Cr. and 40K Cr. It will be a stock car, you will have to add the upgrades specified in the Free Tune below.
Think of it like a Kit Car.
![]() B700 LANCIA Delta INTEGRALE
Tsukuba tune
Intake-street, E block-sport Tires 27/28 B700 Seat Leon Cupra 07
BUILD STREET ENGINE BLOCK ALL RACE PLAT AND HANDLING EXCEPT SPORT BRAKES FISKE 5S RIMS FULL FORZA KIT
TUNE TIRE PSI – 28, 28 GEARS – 3.62, 2.70, 1.87, 1.41, 1.15, 0.98, 0.85 CAMBER – -0.7, -0.5 TOE – 0.1, 0.0 CASTER – 5.3 ANTI-ROLL – 6.80, 34.90 SPRINGS – 264.8, 252.1 REBOUND – 8.9, 7.9 BUMP – 2.3, 2.5 AERO – 70lbs, 50lbs(Lowest) BRAKING – N/A DIFF – Driver Preference 22 or 35%, 0% B700 Audi TT Coupe TUNE: Tires: 27/28 Gearing: FD 4,75; 1. 2,41; 2. 1,65; 3. 1,22; 4. 0,94; 5. 0,76; 6. 0,67 Alignment: -0,8/-0,8; 0,0/0,0; 5,6 ARB: 3,4/40 Springs: 268,5/322,9; 6,3/6,3 Damping: 14,4/12,8; 3,7/2,7 Downforce: 83lb/87lb Differential: front 11/0; rear 51/37; center 43/57
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B700 Toyota APR Celica
Tune: V12 Ewok
Paint: IL3
Price: Free Tune / Paint 110k
Sellers: Spot Performance Team
Tune Type: Grip
Track type: Short/Medium
BUILD:
Sport Engine blk
HANDLING: All Race except sport brakes and sport weight.
Race Avon tyres
19 inch (stock)
stock wheels
stock bodykit
TUNE:
Tires: 28, 29
Gears: 3.58, 3.27, 2.21, 1.67, 1.42, 1.28, 1.18
Alignment: -0.9, -0.6, 0.2, 0.1, 6.7
ARB: 6.29, 40
Springs: 241.2, 249.0 4.5, 4.6
Damping: 13.0, 11.1, 2.8, 2.2
Aero: N/A
Braking: N/A
Diff: 21/0
EVO 8 MR B700 Tsukuba

Build:
Engine- stock
Platform- all race stock weight
Tires- Race Avons, stock width, 19″ Volk se37k
Aero- Race front, Stock rear & sides, race wing, varis hood
Tune:
Tp
28/28
gears
5.00
2.44
1.51
1.09
.93
.85
.75
alignment
.-0.8 /-0.8
0.3/ 0.1
6.2
roll bars 1.00/34.00
springs 283.2/352.7
ride height 5.3/5.3
rebound 17.0/18.0
bump 3.0 6.5
aero 54/50
brakes 48/95
Diff
Front 22/12
rear 22/24
Split 46/54
2006 VW Golf GTi Mk5

Build
Engine: Sport Exhaust, Street Fuel, Sport Block, Race Intercooler
Suspension: Stock Brakes, Sport Flywheel, everything else Race
Wheels: Race Avons, 235/40R18, VOLK TE37
Aero: Full Forza Kit, Stock Skirts
Tune
Tires: 28/29
Gears: Final Drive 4.80, 1st 1.82, 2nd 1.14, 3rd 0.91, 4th 0.76, 5th 0.66, 6th 0.58
Alignment: Camber -0.8/-0.7, Toe 0.1/0.0, Caster 6.3
Roll-Bars: 8.00/25.00
Springs: 257.5/195.4, Height 3.8/3.8
Damping: Rebound 11.0/11.5, Bump 1.8/1.8
Aero: 70/50
Brakes: N/A
Differential: 70/0
FORZA 3: C CLASS CARS TUNING
NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
NISSAN SILVIA S13
UPGRADES
ENGINE
Street Engine Block
Sport Intercooler
PLATFORM AND HANDLING
All maxed except Weight Reduction – Street
TYRES AND RIMS
Tire Compound – Sport BF Goodrich
Width – Max
Rim Size – 18″
Wheels – Yokohama TC ll
AERO
Front – Vertex
Spoiler – Forza
Rear – Bomex
Skirts – Bomex
TUNE DATA
TIRES
Front 30 psi
Rear 29 psi
GEARING
Final drive 4.56
1st 2.89
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.51
4th 1.20
5th 1.00
6th 0.85
ALIGNMENT
Camber Front -0.7
Camber Rear -0.6
Toe Front 0.5
Toe Rear 0.0
Front Caster 5.2
ANTI-ROLL BARS
Front 18.66
Rear 16.68
SPRINGS
Springs Front 495.2 lb/in
Springs Rear 307.6 lb/in
Front Ride Height 4.5 in
Rear Ride Height 4.5 in
DAMPING
Rebound Stiffness Front 9.1
Rebound Stiffness Rear 8.8
Bump Stiffness Front 8.2
Bump Stiffness Rear 6.0
AERO
Rear Downforce 125 lb
BRAKING
Balance 50% Front
Pressure 110%
DIFFERENTIAL
Rear Acceleration 60%
Rear Deceleration 50%
Chrysler Eagle Talon

Parts Setup
Sport Intake, Street Exhaust, Street Ignition, Street Fuel System,
Sport Flywheel, Sport Driveline, Sport Weight Reduction, all other platform and handling are race
Goodyear Sport Tires, upgraded rim size, Rim Style Brabus Monoblock VI
All Forza 2 aero parts, street side skirts
Tune
Tire Pressure 29, 29
Final Drive 3.93
Gearing: (1st to 6th) 2.97, 2.07, 1.59, 1.28, 1.08, .93
Camber: Front -1.5 Rear -.9
Toe: Front and Rear -.3
Caster: 5.1
Anti Roll Bars: Front 7.63, Rear 11.99
Springs: Front 545.7, Rear 386.1
Ride Height: Front 5.6, Rear 5.7
Rebound: Front 5.3, Rear 5.2
Bump Stiffness: 3.8, 2.5
Aero: Front 120 lbs, Rear 145 lbs
Braking Balance : 53% front
Brake Pressure: 97%
Differential: Front Accel. 46%, Decel. 0%
Rear Acel. 48%, Rear Decel 48%
Center Torque: 32% / 68%
Scion tC RWD, C550 Prototype
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Engine and Power
Powertrain Swap: RWD – 35-GT
Cams and Valves: Sport Cams & Valves
Engine Block: Sport Engine Block
Platform and Handling
Brakes: Race
Springs and Dampers: Race
Anti-roll Bars: Race
Transmission: Race
Clutch: Race
Flywheel: Race
Driveline: Race
Differential: Race
Weight Reduction: Sport
Tires & Rims
Compound: Sport
Manufacturer: Hoosier
Width: 225/225 (Full upgrade)
Rim Size: 20″
Rim Style: RO_JA R2-5
Body and Aero
Front Bumper: Forza
Rear Wing: Forza
Rear Bumper: Extreme Dimensions – Street Rear Bumper
Side Skirts: Stock
Hood: Kaminari Street Hood

Car Settings
Tire Pressure
Front: 30
Rear: 29
Gearing
Final Drive: 3.65
1st: 3.05
2nd: 2.03
3rd: 1.60
4th: 1.25
5th: 1.05
6th: 0.91
Alignment
Camber Front: -0.9
Camber Rear: -0.8
Toe Front: 0.2
Toe Rear: -0.1
Front Caster: 5.4
Anti-roll Bars
Front: 11.77
Rear: 9.73
Springs
Front: 513.3
Rear: 330.2
Ride Height
Front: 3.4
Rear: 3.4
Rebound Damping
Front: 8.3
Rear: 6.6
Bump Stiffness
Front: 7.5
Rear: 5.2
Downforce
Front: 70
Rear: 85
Braking Force
Balance: 48% Front
Pressure: Adjust to suit.
Differential
Rear Accel: 26%
Rear Decel: 12%
1997 BMW E36 M3





The real car.


Class: C550 HP: 352 hp Torque: 283 lb-ft Weight: 3137 lbs
Ratings
Speed: 4.7 Accel: 3.8 Brake: 4.9 Cornering: 4.6 Rarity: 6.3
Misc. Info
Track tuned for:
Best time: N/A
Sunset Infield Short Reverse: 01:04.767 (tokyo xtreme)
Nürburgring Nordschleife: 08:34.464 (tokyo xtreme)
Suzuka West: 01:26.242 (tokyo xtreme)
Aids used: none
Mods
Front Bumper: race
Rear Bumper: race
Sides: N/A
Spoiler: race
Hood: N/A
Engine Mods
Intake: stock
Exhaust: sport
Ign.: stock
Fuel: sport
Camshaft: stock
Block: stock
Intercooler: N/A
Turbo: N/A
Centrifugal S/C: N/A
Pos. Displ. S/C: N/A
Engine/Drivetrain swap: N/A
Chassis Mods
Brakes: race
Suspension: race
Anti-roll bars: race
Trans: race
Clutch: race
Flywheel: race
Driveshaft: sport
Differential: race
Weight Reduction: street
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: stock
Wheel width: stock
Wheel diameter: stock
Wheel make/model: HRE 449R
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 29/29
Gearing:
FD: 3.90
1: 2.94
2: 2.00
3: 1.54
4: 1.26
5: 1.08
6: 0.96
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -0.8/ -0.8
-Toe F/R: 0.0/ -0.2
-Caster: 5.5
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 12.4 / 12.3
Springs F/R: 566.8 / 413.0
Ride Height F/R: 5.7 / 5.7
Dampers (rebound): 9.2 / 9.3
Dampers (bump): 8.4 / 6.6
Downforce: 45 lb / 50 lb
Braking
Balance: 47% front
Pressure: 90%
Front Diff Accel: 00%
Front Diff Decel: 00%
Rear Diff Accel: 60%
Rear Diff Decel: 50%
Torque Split: 00%
C550 Mini Cooper
BUILD
Engine: Street Intake, Sport Exhaust, Street Ignition, Sport Intercooler
Handling: Sport Brakes, Race Springs & Damps, Race Roll Bars, Sport Transmission, Race Clutch, Race Flywheel, Race Driveline, Street Differential, Race Wt. Reduction.
Wheels: Race Goodyears, Full Width; 18″ rims (Stock Rim Style)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 30/31
Gearing:
FD: 3.40
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-1.0
Toe: 0/0
Caster: 5.0
Anti-Roll: 20.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 111.0/182.7
Ride Height: 4.7/4.7
Damping:
Rebound: 5.0/4.7
Bump: 5.0/4.6
Aero: No Downforce
Audi S4 C550
BUILD
———-
Engine & Power: Stock
Platform & Handling: Race Everything except Sport weight reduction
Tires & Rims: Michelin Sport Tyres, Stock Width, 19inch (the size between 20 and 18 foo’) OZ racing Superleggera III’s
Body & Aero: Race front Bumper, Race rear wing,
TUNE
———
TIRES
Front 1.86bar (27psi) Rear 1.93bar (28psi)
GEARING
Final Drive 2.13
1st 5.46
2nd 2.94
3rd 2.11
4th 1.77
5th 1.59
6th 1.47
ALIGNMENT
Camber: Front -0.5, Rear -0.6
Toe: Front 0.2, Rear 0.2
Front Caster: 6.0
ANTI-ROLL BARS
Front 1, Rear 40
SPRINGS
Front 32.61kgf/mm (182.607whatever americans use)
Rear 34.64 kgf/mm (193.975whatever americans use)
Ride Height, front 11.6cm (4.5inches), rear 12.1cm (4.7inches)
DAMPING
Rebound Stiffness, Front 14.5, Rear 13.5
Bump Stiffness, Front 1.8, Rear 1.4
AERO
Front 52.6kg (116 lbs)
Rear 56.2kg (124 lbs)
BRAKING
43% Front
Pressure 110%
DIFFERENTIAL
Front
Acceleration 12%
Deceleration 0%
Rear
Acceleration 40%
Deceleration 10%
Torque
47%/53%
C550 Lotus Elise 135R
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BUILD Engine: N/A Handling: Stock Brakes, Stock Flywheel, Stock Driveline, Race Everything Else Wheels: Race Avons, full width, OZ – Canyon (stock size) Aero: Forza Front bumper, Forza rear wing TUNE Tires: 28/27 FD: 6.00 Alignment: Aero: Full Downforce Font and Rear Brakes: N/A Differential: |
C550 BMW M3 E30
BUILD
Engine: None
Handling: Stock Brakes, Sport Weight Reduction, Race Everything Else
Wheels: Race Avons, Stock Tire Width; Volk – GT-P’s (17 inch rims)
Aero: BMW Race Front Bumper, BMW Race Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 28/27
Gearing:
FD: 3.80
1: 3.00
2: 2.00
3: 1.51
4: 1.26
5: 1.10
6: 0.10
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-1.0
Toe: -0.1/-0.2
Caster: 4.0
Anti-Roll: 15.00/10.00
Springs:
Rate: 290.3/250.4
Ride Height: 4.4/4.4
Damping:
Rebound: 16.8/18.0
Bump: 2.5/2.0
Aero: 45 LBS Front Downforce
150 LBS Rear Downforce
Brakes: N/A
Differential:
Acell: 10%
Decell: 35%
C 550 Chevy Cobalt SS
Engine Mods:
rwd lnf ecotec powertrain swap
race engine block
race intercooler
race turbo
Platform and Handling Mods:
all race except for street flywheel and no weight reduction
Tire and Rim Mods:
full tire width
Body and Aero Mods:
forza 2 rear wing
Tune:
tire pressure: 29/31
final drive: 3.30
1st gear: 2.97
2nd gear: 2.20
3rd gear: 1.71
4th gear: 1.37
5th gear: 1.11
6th gear: 0.91
camber: -0.3/-0.7
toe: 0.0/-0.5
caster: 5.0
anti-roll bars: 5.04/30.00
springs: 597.0/643.2
ride height: 4.1/4.2
rebound: 14.3/16.1
bump: 4.7/5.2
aero: na/60
braking: 48/110
differential: 20/40
C 550 Porsche 944 (no aero)
Class: C 550 HP: 289 Torque:291 lb-ft Weight: 2967 lbs
Ratings: Speed: 5.6 Accel:4.4 Brake: 4.2 Cornering: 4.1 Rarity:
I like to drive this one on the Nordschleife.
Nordschleife PB: 8:28.034
Tune:
Tire pressure 55/55
Gears
Final 5.65
2.20
1.31
0.94
0.74
0.61
0.55
camber -0.5/-0.4
toe 0.1/0.1
caster 6.0
roll bars 12/13.50
springs 757.0/ 665.1
ride height 5.2/ 5.3
rebound 15.5/ 19.5
bump 4.0/7.5
differential 100/30
Ford Focus ST
Tuning Setup
Tires
Front 29 psi
Rear 29 psi
Gearing
Final Drive 3.75
1st 2.89
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.51
4th 1.20
5th 1.00
6th 0.85
Alignment
Camber
Front -0.8
Rear -0.8
Toe
Front 0.2
Raer 0.3
Front caster 6.0
Anti-Roll Bars
Front 1.00
Rear 20.00
Springs
Front 549.3
Rear 365.8
Ride Height
Front 4.2
Rear 4.2
Damping
Rebound Stiffness
Front 7.8
Rear 5.0
Bump Stiffness
Front 3.9
Rear 2.5
Aero
Front 50 lb
Rear 50 lb
Braking
========
Differential
Acceleration 75 %
Deceleration 10 %
2002 Honda Integra Type-R
Specs:
Speed: 3.5
Accel: 3.7
Braking: 5.4
Handling: 5.4
182 HP
184 lb-ft
2,157 Lbs
61% Front
Build:
Engine:
AWD K24A1 Swap
Street Fuel
Street Ignition
Street Exhaust
Street Intake
Platform and Handling:
Race Springs
Race Anti-roll bars
Race Trans
Race Clutch
Sport Flywheel
Sport Driveline
Race Differential
Race Weight Reduction
No Brakes
Tires: Race- Firestone
Stock Tire Width
19″ Rims
Volk CE28N
Race Front Bumper
Race Rear Wing
INGS Hood
Tune:
Tires: 29/30
Gearing:
FD-4.50
1st-3.90
2nd-2.10
3rd-1.44
4th-1.14
5th-0.96
6th-0.85
Alignment:
Camber: -0.6/-0.4
Toe: +0.3/+0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-roll Bars: 5.04/36.38
Springs: 141.7/172.8
Ride Height: 5.3/5.3
Rebound: 11.4/11.2
Bump: 1.9/1.7
Aero: 55/50
Braking: N/A
Diff:
Front: 12/0
Rear: 25/17
Split: 43/57












