Author Archive
FORZA 3: A-Class Cars Tuning
November 13th, 2009 | 
Author: NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
A850 Lancer Evo X GSR
BUILD
Engine: Street Engine Block, Sport Fuel System, Sport Ignition, Race Exhaust, Sport Intake
Handling: Race Everything
Wheels: Race Avons, Full Width (265’s); Work Equip 03 Rims (Stock Size)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 28/28
Gearing:
FD: 5.27
1: 1.97
2: 1.22
3: 0.87
4: 0.67
5: 0.57
6: 0.51
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-0.7
Toe: +0.2/+0.1
Caster: 5.5
Anti-Roll: 1.00/4.00
Springs:
Rate: 233.6/295.1
Ride Height: 5.0/5.3
Damping:
Rebound: 6.0/19.5
Bump: 2.2/2.9
Aero: Full Downforce
Brakes: 47/Pressure is Driver Preference
Differential:
Front: 20/0
Rear: 41/1
Split: 34/66
2004 Volkswagen Beetle
Build: 345hp, 337lb-ft, 3241lbs
Engine: BJS Engine Swap, Sport Intake, Exhaust & Fuel System, Street Turbo
Handling: Race Everything
Wheels: 18″ First Width HRE 546R’s with Avon Race Slicks (215/40R18 – 215/40R18)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Wing & Rear Bumper, Caractere Side Skirts
Tune: Grip
Tires: 28/27
Gearing:
FD: 2.00
1: 5.86
2: 3.14
3: 2.07
4: 1.57
5: 1.31
6: 1.13
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-0.8
Toe: 0.3/-0.1
Caster: 5.6
Anti-Roll: 7.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 266.6/244.4
Ride Height: 5.2/5.2
Damping:
Rebound: 7.5/8.0
Bump: 2.5/3.0
Aero: 125/150
Brakes: 47/118
Differential:
Front: 25/0
Rear: 35/35
Split: 35/65
1970 Dodge Challenger R/T Hemi
BUILD
Engine: RWD Powertrain Swap – Mopar 540 Hemi, Race Everything Else
Handling: Stock Brakes, Race Everything Else
Wheels: Street BFGoodrich, 255/255 Width; Work – Equip ‘03 Rims (Stock Size)
Aero: Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 27/28
Gearing:
FD: 2.58
1: 3.15
2: 2.03
3: 1.42
4: 1.11
5: 0.98
6: 0.85
Alignment:
Camber: -0.6/-0.5
Toe: 0.0/0.0
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 36.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate:262.0/131.3
Ride Height: 6.0/6.0
Damping:
Rebound: 16.7/18.7
Bump: 3.3/1.7
Aero: Full Rear Downforce
Brakes: N/A
Differential:
Acell: 11%
Decell: 1%
Nissan Skyline R34
The Settings
Tire Pressure
Front: 27
Rear: 26
Gearing
Final Drive: 3.78
1st: 3.10
2nd: 1.97
3rd: 1.46
4th: 1.19
5th: 1.02
6th: 0.89
Alignment
Camber Front: -1.0
Camber Rear: -0.8
Toe Front: 0.3
Toe Rear: -0.1
Front Caster: 5.5
Anti-roll Bars
Front: 5.93
Rear: 40.00
Springs
Front: 287.2
Rear: 352.3
Ride Height
Front: 6.9
Rear: 7.0
Rebound Damping
Front: 5.3
Rear: 8.1
Bump Stiffness
Front: 3.2
Rear: 3.4
Downforce
Front: 125
Rear: 150
Braking Force
Balance: 45% Front
Pressure: Adjust to Suit
Differential
Front Accel: 16%
Front Decel: 0%
Rear Accel: 34%
Rear Decel: 55%
Center Torque: 38% / 62%
A850 TVR Tuscan-S
Tune Type: Grip
Track type: Medium/long
Tyre Compound: (Sport BF Goodrich)
TUNE:
Tyres: F27 R27
Gearing: FD:4.34, 3.10, 1.66, 1.16, 0.88, 0.76, 0.68
Camber: -1.2, -0.8
Toe: 0.3, 0.3
Castor: 1.5
Anti-Roll Bars: 24.47, 14.97
Springs: 264.9, 274.9
Ride Height: 3.9, 4.1
Damping: 10.5, 7.5, 4.6, 3.1
Aero: 125, 240
Braking: n/a
Differential: RA 13%, RD 16%
A850 Chevrolette Corvette C6 ZO6 Ring Tuned
Car : 2006 Corvette Z06
Engine & Power:
Intake: STOCK
Exhaust: STOCK
Ignition: STOCK
Fuel System: STOCK
Cams & Valves: STOCK
Engine Block: STOCK
Intercooler: STOCK
Turbo: STOCK
Centrifugal Supercharger: STOCK
Positive Displacement Supercharger: STOCK
Powertrain Swap: STOCKRear Acceleration= 9
Rear Deceleration= 19
Platform & Handling:
Brakes: RACE
Springs & Dampers: RACE
Anti-roll Bars: RACE
Transmission: RACE
Clutch: RACE
Flywheel: RACE
Driveline: RACE
Differential: RACE
Weight Reduction: STOCK
Tires & Rims:
Tire Compound: STOCK
Tire Width: MAX WIDTH
Rim Size: STOCK
Rim Style: HRE 546R
Body & Aero:
Front Bumper: FORZA2
Rear Wing: FORZA2
Rear Bumper: FORZA2
Tuning:
Tires: F=29 R=29
Gearing:
FD- 3.74
1st- 2.89
2nd- 1.99
3rd-1.51
4th- 1.20
5th- 1.00
6th- 0.85
Alignment:
Camber- F= -0.8 R= -0.6
Toe- F= 0.3 R= -0.1
Caster- 5.3
Anti-roll Bars: F= 9.59 R= 11.59
Springs: F= 430.8 R= 380.5
Ride Height: F= 4.6 R= 4.7
Damping:
Rebound: F= 8.5 R= 7.0
Bump: F= 7.0 R= 5.5
Aero: F= 125 R= 150
Braking: 49% / 110%
Differential:
A850 Buick Regal
BUILD
Engine: LS7 Powertrain Swap, Race Turbo, Race Intercooler, Race Block, Race Cams, Race Fuel, Race Ignition, Race Exhaust, Race Intake
Handling: Sport Brakes, Sport Driveline, Race Everything Else
Wheels: Street Yokohomas, 265/275 Width; Volk – CE28N Rims (Stock Size)
Aero: Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 29/27
Gearing:
FD: 2.65
1: 2.57
2: 1.58
3: 1.27
4: 1.03
5: 0.92
6: 0.85
Alignment:
Camber: -0.7/-0.6
Toe: +0.2/+0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 27.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 347.7/285.0
Ride Height: 8.2/8.2
Damping:
Rebound: 16.4/19.4
Bump: 1.3/2.1
Aero: Full Rear Downforce
Brakes: N/A
Differential:
Acell: 11%
A850 Toyota Supra RZ
BUILDTUNE
Engine: Sport Exhaust,
Handling: Sport Flywheel, Race Everything else
Wheels: Race Firsetones, 265/285 width, Volk-TE 37’s (stock size)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Forza Rear Wing, AB Flug Side Skirts
Tires: 28/28
Gearing:
FD: 4.17
1: 2.32
2: 1.53
3: 1.09
4: 0.85
5: 0.70
6: 0.61
Alignment:
Camber: -0.7/-0.4
Toe: 0.1/0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 9.00/14.50
Springs:
Rate: 265.2/214.4
Ride Height: 5.3/5.3
Damping:
Rebound: 13.2/11.5
Bump: 3.3/1.7
Aero: 125lbs Front
150lbs Rear
Brakes: 53/105
Differential: 10/20
A850 Vauxhall VX220
Tune :
Tyres 30/30
Gears F 2.51
1. 3.38
2. 2.15
3. 1.72
4. 1.40
Aligment Camber -0.8/-0.4 Toe 0.0/0.0 Castor 5.2
Antirollbars 7.50/20
Springs 148.7/183.2
Rideheight 4.8/4.9
Damping Rebound 10/15 Bump1.4/1.4
Downforce Full
Brakes 48% in front 109% pressure
Diff 15/15
A 850 Cadillac CTS-V
Tune
Tire Pressure
Front: 29
Rear: 27
Gearing
Final Drive: 3.32
1st: 3.55
2nd: 2.02
3rd: 1.43
4th: 1.14
5th: 0.96
6th: 0.84
Alignment
Camber Front: -0.7
Camber Rear: -0.7
Toe Front: 0.0
Toe Rear: -0.2
Front Caster: 4.8
Anti-roll Bars
Front: 13.21
Rear: 12.06
Springs
Front: 460.1
Rear: 390.3
Ride Height
Front: 6.2
Rear: 6.2
Rebound Damping
Front: 6.5
Rear: 5.9
Bump Stiffness
Front: 3.1
Rear: 2.8
Downforce
N/A
Braking Force
Balance: 53%
Pressure: 115% (ABS) 92% Without
Differential
Front Accel: 14%
Front Decel: 34%
A850 Subaru WRX STI ‘05
Tires: 28/28
Gearing:
FD: 6.00
1: 1.89
2: 1.05
3: 0.74
4: 0.58
5: 0.48
6: 0.10
Alignment:
Camber: -0.7/-0.6
Toe: +0.3/+0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-Roll: 1.60/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 434.4/492.4
Ride Height: 5.9/5.9
Damping:
Rebound: 14.2/19.1
Bump: 2.9/2.0
Aero: Full Downforce
Brakes: 54/Pressure is Driver Preference
Differential:
Front: 30/0
Rear: 45/5
Split: 30/70
A850 RENAULT R5 TURBO
Ratings
Speed: 4.4 Accel: 7.2 Brake: 6.8 Cornering: 6.1
Body Mods
Front Bumper: FM2
Rear Bumper: Stock
Spoiler: FM2
Engine Mods
Engine/Drivetrain swap: Stock
Intake: Race
Exhaust: Race
Ign.: Race
Fuel: Race
Camshaft: Stock
Block: Race
Intercooler: Stock
Turbo: Race
Chassis Mods
All Race
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: Race/Bridgestone
Wheel width: max
Wheel diameter: 2nd largest (16″ front)
Wheel make/model: OZ Gemini
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 30/29 (change rear pressure to 55 psi if sim tires are turned off)
Gearing:
FD: 2.55
1: 3.00
2: 2.03
3: 1.53
4: 1.21
5: 0.10 (not used)
6: 0.10 (not used)
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -1.4/-0.7
-Toe F/R: 0.3/-0.2
-Caster: 6.9
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 9.49/20.89
Springs F/R: 130.5/180.6
Ride Height F/R: 5.2/5.4
Dampers (rebound): 10.1/19.3
Dampers (bump): 1.8/2.8
Downforce:125/145
Braking
Balance: 54%
Pressure: 105%
Rear Diff Accel: 11%
Rear Diff Decel: 14%
A850 Lotus Exige
Engine and Power
Race Exhaust
Sport Ignition
Platform and Handling
Race everything
Wheels and Tires
Avon Race Tires
Max Width Tires on Stock Wheels
Body and Aero
Forza Wing and Front
Settings
Tires
F: 30psi R: 30psi
Gearing
FD- 3.37
1st- 3.75
2nd- 2.65
3rd- 2.15
4th- 1.80
5th- 1.55
6th- 1.35Alignment
Camber
F: -0.7 R: -0.6
Toe
0 all around
Caster
5.6
Anti-Roll Bars
F: 20.83 R: 22.32
Springs
Springs
F: 138.6 R: 273.3
Ride Height
F: 4.8 R: 4.7
Damping
Rebound Stiffness
F: 7.8 R: 10.4
Bump Stiffness
F: 3.1 R: 5.1
Aero
F: 178 R: 306
Braking
Balance = 48% Front
Pressure= 100%
Differential
Accel: 13%
Decel: 30%
A-850 Saleen S281 E
Tires
Tire Pressure : 29 PSi
Tire Pressure : 28 PSi
Gearing
Final Drive : 5.90
1st : 1.65
2nd : 1.01
3rd : .73
4th : .61
5th : .55
6th : .50
Alignment
Camber Front : -0.5
Camber Rear : -0.4
Toe Front : .2
Toe Rear : 0
Front Caster : 4.7
Anti-Roll
Anti-Roll Bars Front : 29.30
Anti-Roll Bars Rear : 21.20
Springs
Springs Front : 342.2
Springs Rear : 403.2
Ride Height Front : 4.5
Ride Height Rear : 5.0
Damping
Rebound Stiffness Front : 13.4
Rebound Stiffness Rear : 10.7
Bump Stiffness Front : 1.8
Bump Stiffness Rear : 2.6
Aero
Aero Downforce Front : 125
Aero Downforce Rear : 138
Braking
Braking Force : 48%
Braking Pressure :112 %
Differential
Front Differential Acceleration : 10%
Front Differential Deceleration : 4%
A849 / A850** – 1968 Barracuda S
Tires:
Tire Pressure – 28 / 27
Gears: ( Drives only in 3rd & 4th )
Final Drive – 6.00
1st – 1.45
2nd – 0.80
3rd – 0.52
4th – 0.43
5th – 0.38
6th – 0.35
Camber:
FR – -0.5
RR – -0.6
Toe:
Front – 0.0
Rear – 0.0
Front Caster:
Angle – 7.0
Anti-Roll Bars:
Front – 37.2
Rear – 15.0
Springs:
Front – 235.0
Rear – 188.6
Ride Height:
Front – 6.9
Rear – 7.3
Rebound Stiffnes:
Front – 12.5
Rear – 20.0
Bump Stiffnes:
Front – 1
Rear – 1
Aero:
Rear – 150
Differential:
Rear Acell. – 12
Rear Deacell. – 0
A849 – Better handling
A850** – Better breaking
A850 Porches 911T 3.3.
A850 Porches 911T 3.3.
Build.
Sport exhaust, Sport ignition.
Race handling.
Race Avons, max width, Stock rims, Volk SE37K.
No aero.
Tune.
Tyres: 28/28
Gearing: 3.37 2.50 1.56 1.17 0.98 0.89 0.82
Alignment: -0.4/-0.3 0.1/-0.1 5.0
Anti roll bars: 15.00/35.00
Springs: 211.6/231.4 5.5in/5.5in
Damping; 13.5/14.0 2.2/2.2
Aero: N/A
Braking: 50%/108%
Differential: 45%/40%
A850 Shelby Cobra.
Build.
Stock engine parts.
Stock brakes, Stock flywheel, Street driveline, Stock weight. Rest are Race.
Street firestones, Stock width, Max rims, Stock alloys.
Tune.
Tyres: 29/27
Gearing: 4.06 2.16 1.19 0.92 0.80 0.74 0.70
Alignment: -0.7/-0.5 0.0/0.0 6.0
Anti roll bars: 24.95/1.00
Springs: 240.7/233.6 5.2/5.0
Damping; 13.7/13.6 2.0/1.3
Aero: N/A
Braking: N/A
Differential: 30%/49%
A850 911 Carrerra 1973.
Build
Race Exhaust, Race ignition, Race fuel, Race block.
Sport driveline, Race rest.
Race Avons, max width, 17inch rims, stock alloys.
No aero.
Tune.
Tyres: 30/29
Gearing: 3.10 3.14 2.77 1.36 1.13 0.99 0.85
Alignment: -0.8/-0.6 0.1/0.0 5.5
Anti roll bars: 4.60/12.06
Springs: 130.3/162.0 7.1/7.2
Damping: 9.2/9.5 3.2/2.5
Aero: N/A
Braking: 49% 113%
Differential: 30%/27%
A850 BMW M3-GTR
Speed – 5.5
Accel – 5.1
Braking – 6.0
Handling – 5.9
The Build
Engine and Power
All Stock
Platform and Handling
Brakes - Sport
Springs & Dampers – Race
Anti-roll – Race
Transmission – Race
Clutch – Race
Flywheel – Stock
Driveline – Race
Differential – Race
Weight Reduction – Race
Tires and Rims
Tire – Race Firestone
Width – N/A
Rim Size – Stock
Rim – Volk TE37
Body and Aero
Front bumper – BMW Race
Rear wing – BMW Race
Rear bumper – BMW Race
The Tune
Tire pressure – 29/28
Gearing
Final drive – 4.15
(1st) – 2.70
(2nd) – 1.86
(3rd) – 1.42
(4th) – 1.14
(5th) – .96
(6th) – .85
Alignment
Front Camber – (-0.8)
Rear Camber – (-0.7)
Front Toe – 0.0
Rear Toe – 0.0
Caster – 5.1
Anti-Roll Bars
Front – 10.07
Rear – 7.05
Springs
Front – 309.3
Rear – 230.0
Ride height
Front – 7.3
Rear – 7.8
Damping
Front rebound – 10.0
Rear rebound – 8.5
Front bump – 4.0
Rear bump – 3.5
Aero
Front – 213
Rear – 349
Braking
Bias – N/A
Presure – N/A
Differential
Rear
Accel – 34%
Decel – 30%
A850 Nissan 432R
Tune:
Tire Pressure – 27/29
Final Drive – 3.73
1st – 2.93
2nd – 1.65
3rd – 1.22
4th – 0.99
5th – 0.85
6th – 0.76
Camber – -0.9/-0.7
Toe – 0.2/0.1
Front Caster – 6.1
Anti-roll Bars – 5.50/40.00
Springs – 159.1/178.5
Ride Height – 5.7/5.8
Rebound Stiffness – 14.5/15.0
Bump Stiffness – 1.9/2.0
Aero – xxx/150
Braking Balance – 46%
Braking Pressure – 114%
Front Diff. – 12/0
Rear Diff. – 55/40
Center Torque – 38/62
Posted in HINTS, TIPS AND TRICKS, TUNING GUIDES AND FULL TUNING, Uncategorized | 
Tags: car list, cars, cheat, ffffo, forza 3, forza 3 hints, forza 3 info, forza 3 motorsport xbox october launching, forza 3 tips, forza 3 tricks, forza 3 wheel settings, forza racing guide, nürnburgring, sebring, suzuka, tracks, tuning, unlock, xbox | 
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FORZA 3: B-CLASS CARS TUNING
NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
B-Class Audi Sport Quattro
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Free Tune:
Tune:
Make: Audi
Model: Sport Quattro Tuned by: Dewstain and YoYoMaStEr 911 Painted by: Dewstain Buildsheet:
[UPGRADES] Engine and Power: Street Intake Street Intercooler Platform and Handling: All Race Parts except: Sport Weight Reduction Tires and Rims: Toyo Sport Tire Compound +1 Tire Width (245 Front/Rear) +2 Rim Size (17″) Fikse Profil 13 Body and Aero: Forza Front Bumper Forza Rear Wing [TUNE]
Tires: Front = 28 Rear = 29 Gearing:
Final = 3.85 1st = 2.89 2nd = 1.99 3rd = 1.51 4th = 1.20 5th = 1.00 6th = 0.85 Alignment:
Front Camber = -0.8 Rear Camber = -0.6 Front Toe = 0.4 Rear Toe = -0.2 Front Caster = 5.5 Anti-Roll Bars:
Front = 4.00 Rear = 40.00 Springs:
Front = 230.2 Rear = 336.5 Front Height = 5.5 Rear Height = 5.5 Damping:
Front Rebound = 10.6 Rear Rebound = 6.2 Front Bump = 3.6 Rear Bump = 3.3 Aero:
Front = 125 Rear = 150 Braking:
Balance = 47% Pressure = 96% Differential:
Front Accel = 10% Front Decel = 0% Rear Accel = 70% Rear Decel = 40% Torque Split = 33%/67% Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 6 GSR
Upgrades: Engine: Sport Intercooler Handeling: Full Race except for street driveline Tires: Sport BFGoodrich, Rims 18 inches Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Erebuni Street Side Skirts (The first one), Forza Wing
The Tune: Tires: Front: 29 Rear: 29 Gearing: Final Drive: 3.70 1st: 3.65 2nd: 2.21 3rd: 1.56 4th: 1.24 5th: 1.02 6th: Not used Alignment: Camber: Front: -0.6 Rear: -0.6 Toe: Front: 0.3 Rear: -0.2 Caster: 5.6 Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 4.98 Rear: 36.48 Springs: Front: 418.3 Rear: 475.8 Ride Height: Front: 4.6 Rear: 4.7 Rebound: Front: 8.7 Rear: 8.3 Bump: Front: 3.6 B700 92 NSX-R ECT Rear: 3.9 Aerodynamics: Front: 95 Rear: 110 Braking: Balance: 43% Pressure: 120% Differential: Front: Acceleration: 15% Deceleration: 0 Rear: Acceleration: 35% Deceleration: 20% Torque Split: 37%/63% B700 92 NSX-R ECT Build: Engine: stock Platfrom & Handling: Race Brakes Race suspension Race Roll Bars Race Tranny Race clutch Stock flywheel Sport Driveline Race Diff Sport Weight Tires: Sport Pirelli 2nd width Rim Size 3rd choice 18″/19″ Wheel style: Volk te37 Aero: all Race Tires pressure: 29/28 Gearing Fd 4.15 1st 3.84 2nd 2.54 3rd 1.72 4th 1.23 5th 1.01 6th 0.84 Alignment Camber -0.5/-0.3 toe 0.2/-0.1 Caster 6.4 Roll bars 19/29.5 springs 351/348 ride height 3.9/3.9 Rebound 6.5/10.5 Bump 4.0/5.0 aero 125/265 Brakes Balance 48% presssure 102% Diff. Accel 26% decel 22% B700 1969 CHEVY CAMARO SS (SPEED TUNED) Class: B700 HP: 965 Torque: 846 Weight: 2,572 lbs. Ratings Misc. Info Engine Mods Chassis Mods Tires Tuning: Gearing: Alignment Anti-roll Bar F/R: 40.00/29.00 Springs F/R: 220.9/171.9 Dampers (rebound): 10.5/9.2 Rear Downforce: 150 Braking Rear Diff Accel: 27% Notes: Never shift below 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd gears are only needed for launching from a standstill. For hotlapping with this car, turn sim tire wear off and use the high tire pressures posted above. If you are racing with sim tire wear turned on, use the optional tire pressures in parentheses. Ford Mustang 05 GT Tune Settings:
B697 FERRARI 250 GTO
Make/Model: 1964 Ferrari 250 GTO
Class: B697 HP: 681 Torque: 540 Weight: 2,132 lbs. Ratings Misc. Info Mods Engine Mods Chassis Mods Tires Tuning: Gearing: Alignment Anti-roll Bar F/R: 40.00/33.50 Springs F/R: 172.1/195.1 Dampers (rebound): 11.1/10.5 Rear Downforce: 150 Braking Rear Diff Accel: 24%
This free tune is also accompanied by a slightly revised paint for this car. The SW2 sellers and I will put as many of these paintjobs on the AH as needed for the price of the car beginning later tonight. I’m not sure what that price is, but I believe it’s somewhere between 30K Cr. and 40K Cr. It will be a stock car, you will have to add the upgrades specified in the Free Tune below.
Think of it like a Kit Car.
 B700 LANCIA Delta INTEGRALE
Tsukuba tune
Intake-street, E block-sport Tires 27/28 B700 Seat Leon Cupra 07
BUILD STREET ENGINE BLOCK ALL RACE PLAT AND HANDLING EXCEPT SPORT BRAKES FISKE 5S RIMS FULL FORZA KIT
TUNE TIRE PSI – 28, 28 GEARS – 3.62, 2.70, 1.87, 1.41, 1.15, 0.98, 0.85 CAMBER – -0.7, -0.5 TOE – 0.1, 0.0 CASTER – 5.3 ANTI-ROLL – 6.80, 34.90 SPRINGS – 264.8, 252.1 REBOUND – 8.9, 7.9 BUMP – 2.3, 2.5 AERO – 70lbs, 50lbs(Lowest) BRAKING – N/A DIFF – Driver Preference 22 or 35%, 0% B700 Audi TT Coupe TUNE: Tires: 27/28 Gearing: FD 4,75; 1. 2,41; 2. 1,65; 3. 1,22; 4. 0,94; 5. 0,76; 6. 0,67 Alignment: -0,8/-0,8; 0,0/0,0; 5,6 ARB: 3,4/40 Springs: 268,5/322,9; 6,3/6,3 Damping: 14,4/12,8; 3,7/2,7 Downforce: 83lb/87lb Differential: front 11/0; rear 51/37; center 43/57
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B700 Toyota APR Celica
Tune: V12 Ewok
Paint: IL3
Price: Free Tune / Paint 110k
Sellers: Spot Performance Team
Tune Type: Grip
Track type: Short/Medium
BUILD:
Sport Engine blk
HANDLING: All Race except sport brakes and sport weight.
Race Avon tyres
19 inch (stock)
stock wheels
stock bodykit
TUNE:
Tires: 28, 29
Gears: 3.58, 3.27, 2.21, 1.67, 1.42, 1.28, 1.18
Alignment: -0.9, -0.6, 0.2, 0.1, 6.7
ARB: 6.29, 40
Springs: 241.2, 249.0 4.5, 4.6
Damping: 13.0, 11.1, 2.8, 2.2
Aero: N/A
Braking: N/A
Diff: 21/0
EVO 8 MR B700 Tsukuba
Build:
Engine- stock
Platform- all race stock weight
Tires- Race Avons, stock width, 19″ Volk se37k
Aero- Race front, Stock rear & sides, race wing, varis hood
Tune:
Tp
28/28
gears
5.00
2.44
1.51
1.09
.93
.85
.75
alignment
.-0.8 /-0.8
0.3/ 0.1
6.2
roll bars 1.00/34.00
springs 283.2/352.7
ride height 5.3/5.3
rebound 17.0/18.0
bump 3.0 6.5
aero 54/50
brakes 48/95
Diff
Front 22/12
rear 22/24
Split 46/54
2006 VW Golf GTi Mk5
Build
Engine: Sport Exhaust, Street Fuel, Sport Block, Race Intercooler
Suspension: Stock Brakes, Sport Flywheel, everything else Race
Wheels: Race Avons, 235/40R18, VOLK TE37
Aero: Full Forza Kit, Stock Skirts
Tune
Tires: 28/29
Gears: Final Drive 4.80, 1st 1.82, 2nd 1.14, 3rd 0.91, 4th 0.76, 5th 0.66, 6th 0.58
Alignment: Camber -0.8/-0.7, Toe 0.1/0.0, Caster 6.3
Roll-Bars: 8.00/25.00
Springs: 257.5/195.4, Height 3.8/3.8
Damping: Rebound 11.0/11.5, Bump 1.8/1.8
Aero: 70/50
Brakes: N/A
Differential: 70/0
Posted in HINTS, TIPS AND TRICKS, TUNING GUIDES AND FULL TUNING, Uncategorized |
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FORZA 3: C CLASS CARS TUNING
NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
NISSAN SILVIA S13
UPGRADES
ENGINE
Street Engine Block
Sport Intercooler
PLATFORM AND HANDLING
All maxed except Weight Reduction – Street
TYRES AND RIMS
Tire Compound – Sport BF Goodrich
Width – Max
Rim Size – 18″
Wheels – Yokohama TC ll
AERO
Front – Vertex
Spoiler – Forza
Rear – Bomex
Skirts – Bomex
TUNE DATA
TIRES
Front 30 psi
Rear 29 psi
GEARING
Final drive 4.56
1st 2.89
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.51
4th 1.20
5th 1.00
6th 0.85
ALIGNMENT
Camber Front -0.7
Camber Rear -0.6
Toe Front 0.5
Toe Rear 0.0
Front Caster 5.2
ANTI-ROLL BARS
Front 18.66
Rear 16.68
SPRINGS
Springs Front 495.2 lb/in
Springs Rear 307.6 lb/in
Front Ride Height 4.5 in
Rear Ride Height 4.5 in
DAMPING
Rebound Stiffness Front 9.1
Rebound Stiffness Rear 8.8
Bump Stiffness Front 8.2
Bump Stiffness Rear 6.0
AERO
Rear Downforce 125 lb
BRAKING
Balance 50% Front
Pressure 110%
DIFFERENTIAL
Rear Acceleration 60%
Rear Deceleration 50%
Chrysler Eagle Talon
Parts Setup
Sport Intake, Street Exhaust, Street Ignition, Street Fuel System,
Sport Flywheel, Sport Driveline, Sport Weight Reduction, all other platform and handling are race
Goodyear Sport Tires, upgraded rim size, Rim Style Brabus Monoblock VI
All Forza 2 aero parts, street side skirts
Tune
Tire Pressure 29, 29
Final Drive 3.93
Gearing: (1st to 6th) 2.97, 2.07, 1.59, 1.28, 1.08, .93
Camber: Front -1.5 Rear -.9
Toe: Front and Rear -.3
Caster: 5.1
Anti Roll Bars: Front 7.63, Rear 11.99
Springs: Front 545.7, Rear 386.1
Ride Height: Front 5.6, Rear 5.7
Rebound: Front 5.3, Rear 5.2
Bump Stiffness: 3.8, 2.5
Aero: Front 120 lbs, Rear 145 lbs
Braking Balance : 53% front
Brake Pressure: 97%
Differential: Front Accel. 46%, Decel. 0%
Rear Acel. 48%, Rear Decel 48%
Center Torque: 32% / 68%
Scion tC RWD, C550 Prototype
|
|
Engine and Power
Powertrain Swap: RWD – 35-GT
Cams and Valves: Sport Cams & Valves
Engine Block: Sport Engine Block
Platform and Handling
Brakes: Race
Springs and Dampers: Race
Anti-roll Bars: Race
Transmission: Race
Clutch: Race
Flywheel: Race
Driveline: Race
Differential: Race
Weight Reduction: Sport
Tires & Rims
Compound: Sport
Manufacturer: Hoosier
Width: 225/225 (Full upgrade)
Rim Size: 20″
Rim Style: RO_JA R2-5
Body and Aero
Front Bumper: Forza
Rear Wing: Forza
Rear Bumper: Extreme Dimensions – Street Rear Bumper
Side Skirts: Stock
Hood: Kaminari Street Hood
Car Settings
Tire Pressure
Front: 30
Rear: 29
Gearing
Final Drive: 3.65
1st: 3.05
2nd: 2.03
3rd: 1.60
4th: 1.25
5th: 1.05
6th: 0.91
Alignment
Camber Front: -0.9
Camber Rear: -0.8
Toe Front: 0.2
Toe Rear: -0.1
Front Caster: 5.4
Anti-roll Bars
Front: 11.77
Rear: 9.73
Springs
Front: 513.3
Rear: 330.2
Ride Height
Front: 3.4
Rear: 3.4
Rebound Damping
Front: 8.3
Rear: 6.6
Bump Stiffness
Front: 7.5
Rear: 5.2
Downforce
Front: 70
Rear: 85
Braking Force
Balance: 48% Front
Pressure: Adjust to suit.
Differential
Rear Accel: 26%
Rear Decel: 12%
1997 BMW E36 M3
The real car.
Class: C550 HP: 352 hp Torque: 283 lb-ft Weight: 3137 lbs
Ratings
Speed: 4.7 Accel: 3.8 Brake: 4.9 Cornering: 4.6 Rarity: 6.3
Misc. Info
Track tuned for:
Best time: N/A
Sunset Infield Short Reverse: 01:04.767 (tokyo xtreme)
Nürburgring Nordschleife: 08:34.464 (tokyo xtreme)
Suzuka West: 01:26.242 (tokyo xtreme)
Aids used: none
Mods
Front Bumper: race
Rear Bumper: race
Sides: N/A
Spoiler: race
Hood: N/A
Engine Mods
Intake: stock
Exhaust: sport
Ign.: stock
Fuel: sport
Camshaft: stock
Block: stock
Intercooler: N/A
Turbo: N/A
Centrifugal S/C: N/A
Pos. Displ. S/C: N/A
Engine/Drivetrain swap: N/A
Chassis Mods
Brakes: race
Suspension: race
Anti-roll bars: race
Trans: race
Clutch: race
Flywheel: race
Driveshaft: sport
Differential: race
Weight Reduction: street
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: stock
Wheel width: stock
Wheel diameter: stock
Wheel make/model: HRE 449R
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 29/29
Gearing:
FD: 3.90
1: 2.94
2: 2.00
3: 1.54
4: 1.26
5: 1.08
6: 0.96
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -0.8/ -0.8
-Toe F/R: 0.0/ -0.2
-Caster: 5.5
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 12.4 / 12.3
Springs F/R: 566.8 / 413.0
Ride Height F/R: 5.7 / 5.7
Dampers (rebound): 9.2 / 9.3
Dampers (bump): 8.4 / 6.6
Downforce: 45 lb / 50 lb
Braking
Balance: 47% front
Pressure: 90%
Front Diff Accel: 00%
Front Diff Decel: 00%
Rear Diff Accel: 60%
Rear Diff Decel: 50%
Torque Split: 00%
C550 Mini Cooper
BUILD
Engine: Street Intake, Sport Exhaust, Street Ignition, Sport Intercooler
Handling: Sport Brakes, Race Springs & Damps, Race Roll Bars, Sport Transmission, Race Clutch, Race Flywheel, Race Driveline, Street Differential, Race Wt. Reduction.
Wheels: Race Goodyears, Full Width; 18″ rims (Stock Rim Style)
Aero: Forza Front Bumper, Forza Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 30/31
Gearing:
FD: 3.40
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-1.0
Toe: 0/0
Caster: 5.0
Anti-Roll: 20.00/40.00
Springs:
Rate: 111.0/182.7
Ride Height: 4.7/4.7
Damping:
Rebound: 5.0/4.7
Bump: 5.0/4.6
Aero: No Downforce
Audi S4 C550
BUILD
———-
Engine & Power: Stock
Platform & Handling: Race Everything except Sport weight reduction
Tires & Rims: Michelin Sport Tyres, Stock Width, 19inch (the size between 20 and 18 foo’) OZ racing Superleggera III’s
Body & Aero: Race front Bumper, Race rear wing,
TUNE
———
TIRES
Front 1.86bar (27psi) Rear 1.93bar (28psi)
GEARING
Final Drive 2.13
1st 5.46
2nd 2.94
3rd 2.11
4th 1.77
5th 1.59
6th 1.47
ALIGNMENT
Camber: Front -0.5, Rear -0.6
Toe: Front 0.2, Rear 0.2
Front Caster: 6.0
ANTI-ROLL BARS
Front 1, Rear 40
SPRINGS
Front 32.61kgf/mm (182.607whatever americans use)
Rear 34.64 kgf/mm (193.975whatever americans use)
Ride Height, front 11.6cm (4.5inches), rear 12.1cm (4.7inches)
DAMPING
Rebound Stiffness, Front 14.5, Rear 13.5
Bump Stiffness, Front 1.8, Rear 1.4
AERO
Front 52.6kg (116 lbs)
Rear 56.2kg (124 lbs)
BRAKING
43% Front
Pressure 110%
DIFFERENTIAL
Front
Acceleration 12%
Deceleration 0%
Rear
Acceleration 40%
Deceleration 10%
Torque
47%/53%
C550 Lotus Elise 135R
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BUILD Engine: N/A Handling: Stock Brakes, Stock Flywheel, Stock Driveline, Race Everything Else Wheels: Race Avons, full width, OZ – Canyon (stock size) Aero: Forza Front bumper, Forza rear wing TUNE Tires: 28/27 FD: 6.00 Alignment: Aero: Full Downforce Font and Rear Brakes: N/A Differential: |
C550 BMW M3 E30
BUILD
Engine: None
Handling: Stock Brakes, Sport Weight Reduction, Race Everything Else
Wheels: Race Avons, Stock Tire Width; Volk – GT-P’s (17 inch rims)
Aero: BMW Race Front Bumper, BMW Race Rear Wing
TUNE
Tires: 28/27
Gearing:
FD: 3.80
1: 3.00
2: 2.00
3: 1.51
4: 1.26
5: 1.10
6: 0.10
Alignment:
Camber: -0.8/-1.0
Toe: -0.1/-0.2
Caster: 4.0
Anti-Roll: 15.00/10.00
Springs:
Rate: 290.3/250.4
Ride Height: 4.4/4.4
Damping:
Rebound: 16.8/18.0
Bump: 2.5/2.0
Aero: 45 LBS Front Downforce
150 LBS Rear Downforce
Brakes: N/A
Differential:
Acell: 10%
Decell: 35%
C 550 Chevy Cobalt SS
Engine Mods:
rwd lnf ecotec powertrain swap
race engine block
race intercooler
race turbo
Platform and Handling Mods:
all race except for street flywheel and no weight reduction
Tire and Rim Mods:
full tire width
Body and Aero Mods:
forza 2 rear wing
Tune:
tire pressure: 29/31
final drive: 3.30
1st gear: 2.97
2nd gear: 2.20
3rd gear: 1.71
4th gear: 1.37
5th gear: 1.11
6th gear: 0.91
camber: -0.3/-0.7
toe: 0.0/-0.5
caster: 5.0
anti-roll bars: 5.04/30.00
springs: 597.0/643.2
ride height: 4.1/4.2
rebound: 14.3/16.1
bump: 4.7/5.2
aero: na/60
braking: 48/110
differential: 20/40
C 550 Porsche 944 (no aero)
Class: C 550 HP: 289 Torque:291 lb-ft Weight: 2967 lbs
Ratings: Speed: 5.6 Accel:4.4 Brake: 4.2 Cornering: 4.1 Rarity:
I like to drive this one on the Nordschleife.
Nordschleife PB: 8:28.034
Tune:
Tire pressure 55/55
Gears
Final 5.65
2.20
1.31
0.94
0.74
0.61
0.55
camber -0.5/-0.4
toe 0.1/0.1
caster 6.0
roll bars 12/13.50
springs 757.0/ 665.1
ride height 5.2/ 5.3
rebound 15.5/ 19.5
bump 4.0/7.5
differential 100/30
Ford Focus ST
Tuning Setup
Tires
Front 29 psi
Rear 29 psi
Gearing
Final Drive 3.75
1st 2.89
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.51
4th 1.20
5th 1.00
6th 0.85
Alignment
Camber
Front -0.8
Rear -0.8
Toe
Front 0.2
Raer 0.3
Front caster 6.0
Anti-Roll Bars
Front 1.00
Rear 20.00
Springs
Front 549.3
Rear 365.8
Ride Height
Front 4.2
Rear 4.2
Damping
Rebound Stiffness
Front 7.8
Rear 5.0
Bump Stiffness
Front 3.9
Rear 2.5
Aero
Front 50 lb
Rear 50 lb
Braking
========
Differential
Acceleration 75 %
Deceleration 10 %
2002 Honda Integra Type-R
Specs:
Speed: 3.5
Accel: 3.7
Braking: 5.4
Handling: 5.4
182 HP
184 lb-ft
2,157 Lbs
61% Front
Build:
Engine:
AWD K24A1 Swap
Street Fuel
Street Ignition
Street Exhaust
Street Intake
Platform and Handling:
Race Springs
Race Anti-roll bars
Race Trans
Race Clutch
Sport Flywheel
Sport Driveline
Race Differential
Race Weight Reduction
No Brakes
Tires: Race- Firestone
Stock Tire Width
19″ Rims
Volk CE28N
Race Front Bumper
Race Rear Wing
INGS Hood
Tune:
Tires: 29/30
Gearing:
FD-4.50
1st-3.90
2nd-2.10
3rd-1.44
4th-1.14
5th-0.96
6th-0.85
Alignment:
Camber: -0.6/-0.4
Toe: +0.3/+0.1
Caster: 7.0
Anti-roll Bars: 5.04/36.38
Springs: 141.7/172.8
Ride Height: 5.3/5.3
Rebound: 11.4/11.2
Bump: 1.9/1.7
Aero: 55/50
Braking: N/A
Diff:
Front: 12/0
Rear: 25/17
Split: 43/57
Posted in HINTS, TIPS AND TRICKS, TUNING GUIDES AND FULL TUNING, Uncategorized |
Tags: car list, cars, cheat, ffffo, forza 3, forza 3 hints, forza 3 info, forza 3 motorsport xbox october launching, forza 3 tips, forza 3 tricks, forza 3 wheel settings, forza racing guide, nürnburgring, sebring, suzuka, tracks, tuning, unlock, xbox |
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FORZA 3: D CLASS CARS TUNING
NOTE: The following setups have been provided by other Forza 3 Players or have been used using a tuning calculator. Please note that tuning is different for each player, track and vehicle, hence the followig tunes are merely to provide a feel of the tuning direction.
D Class MINI COOPER S:
Details for the race are as follows:
Sunday, July 27th, 2008 at 10:00 EST
Laps: 4
Damage: Cosmetic
Collisions: Default (we don’t want some turd ruining it)
Tires and Fuel: Simulation
Make: Mini
Model: Cooper S
Tuned by: Dewstain
Painted by: Dewstain
Buildsheet:
UPGRADES:
Engine and Power
Race Intake
Race Exhaust
Street Ignition
Platform and Handling:
Sport Transmission, Stock Driveline, Stock Weight, everything else Race
Tires and Rims:
Stock Tires
Stock Width
18″
Borbet Design BS Rims
Body and Aero:
Forza front bumper
Forza wing
TUNE:
Tires:
Front = 27
Rear = 28
Gearing:
Final = 2.75
1st = Can’t Change
2nd = Can’t Change
3rd = Can’t Change
4th = Can’t Change
5th = Can’t Change
6th = Can’t Change
Alignment:
Front Camber = -0.8
Rear Camber = -0.7
Front Toe = 0.3
Rear Toe = 0.1
Front Caster = 5.4
Anti-Roll Bars:
Front = 7.30
Rear = 23.20
Springs:
Front = 405.6
Rear = 503.1
Front Height = 4.8
Rear Height = 4.9
Damping:
Front Rebound = 4.2
Rear Rebound = 10.5
Front Bump = 3.4
Rear Bump = 3.0
Aero:
Front = 125
Rear = 150
Braking:
Balance = 45%
Pressure = 100%
Differential:
Front Accel = 16%
Front Decel = 0%
D Class 1969 Dodge Charger
Speed: 5.8
Acceleration: 4.5
Braking: 3.3
Handling: 3.0
Upgrades:
Engine: Race Positive Displacement Supercharger (stock powertrain)
Handling: All Race except for Stock flywheel, stock driveline, and stock weight reduction.
Tires and Rims: Stock tires and width, 17 inch rims, Brabus monoblock IV
Aero: Forza Race Rear Wing
Tune:
Tires: 32, 32 (55 55 for hotlapping)
Gearing:
FD:3.60
2.15
1.41
1.03
0.82
0.72
.1 (not used)
Camber: -.7, -.5
Toe: 0.0, -.5
Caster: 7.0
AR Bars: 40, 29
Springs: 306.3, 313.8
Ride Height: 8.5, 7.2
Damping: 16.0, 18.0
Bump: 2.5, 2.5
Aero: NA, 150
Breaking Force: 46% front
Pressure: 110%
Acceleration: 5%
Decceleration: 3%
D Class 1968 Shelby GT500
Tune:
Tires 29fr/28r
Gears
Fd: 3.25
1st 3.60
2nd 2.15
3rd 1.50
4th 1.20
5th 1.00
6th 0.86
Alignment
Camber -0.8fr/ -0.6r
Toe 0.1fr/-0.2r
Caster 6.0
Anti Roll Bars 25.00 front/22.50 rear
springs 514.0fr/448.0 r
Ride height 7.4 frnt/ 7.5 r
Damping
Rebound 5.0 frnt/ 11.0 r
Bump 2.5frnt/ 5.0r
Brake Balance 43%
Brake pressure 110%
Differential 16% accel 21% decel
D Class AE86 Sprinter Tureno
Build
Engine and Power
None
Handling and Platform
Brakes – Stock
Springs and Dampers – Race
Anti-Roll Bars – Race
Transmission – Race
Clutch – Race
Flywheel – Street
Driveline – Stock
Differential – Race
Weight Reduction – Race
Tyres and Rims
Tyre Compound – Bridgestone Race
Tyre Width – 225/50R14
The Set Up – Tsukuba
Tyre Pressure 29 PSI Front / 27 PSI Rear
Gearing – FD 3.00 / 1st 3.16 / 2nd 2.17 / 3rd 1.62 / 4th 1.31 / 5th 1.12 / 6th 0.97
Alignment
Camber -1.1 Front / -0.9 Rear
Toe 0.2 degrees front / -0.2 degrees rear
Front Caster 6 degrees
ARB 6.97 Front / 15.12 Rear
Springs 250.6 lb/in Front / 230.3 lb/in rear
Ride Height 5.6 in front / 5.8 in rear
Damping
Rebound 8.8 front / 9.1 rear
Bump 5.0 front / 2.8 rear
Aero – 49lb front / 51 lb rear
Diff 28% Accel / 12% Decel
D Class Renault 5 Turbo
I love racing this car around Motegi and Motegi East where it does the best but also like giving it a blast around the longer tracks such as Silverstone International and the Grand Prix Version.
Tune: GSI Daney
Paint: carlcooper
Price: Free Tune / Paint 35k
Sellers: Spot Performance Team
Tune Type: Grip
Track type: Short / Medium
BUILD:
Springs: Race.
Anti Roll Bars: Race.
Transmission: Race
Clutch: Race.
Flywheel: Street.
Driveline: Street.
Differential: Race.
Tyre Compound: Race Bridgestone.
Rim Style: Enkei RP F1.
Front Bumper: Race Forza.
Rear Wing: Race Forza.
Rear Bumper: Race Forza.
TUNE:
Tyres: 28, 28.
Gearing: 3.17, 3.30, 2.10, 1.55, 1.34, 1.20, 1.11.
Alignment: -0.6, -0.4, 0.1, -0.1, 5.6.
Anti Roll Bars: 32.49, 7.39.
Springs: 128.5, 162.2, 5.0, 5.1.
Damping: 2.9, 3.5, 1.9, 1.7.
Aero: 50, 95.
Braking: NA.
Differential: 35%, 7%
D Class 1991 BMW M3
Make/Model: 1991 BMW M3 E30
Class: D 400 HP: 215 Torque: 180 lb-ft Weight: 2634 lbs
Ratings
Speed: 3.6 Accel: 3.4 Brake: 4.6 Cornering: 4.4 Rarity: 6.3
Info: I know the D 400 BMW Driver Training M3 E30 isnt the fastest D class car, but i just want to do something different.
Some lap times:
Motegi Road Course West: 42.037
TT – Copperhead: 53.715
TT – Copperhead Reverse: 53.887
Aids used: none
Mods
Front Bumper: Race
Rear Bumper:
Sides: N/A
Spoiler: Race
Hood: N/A
Chassis Mods
Brakes: Stock
Suspension: Race
Anti-roll bars: Race
Trans: Race
Clutch: Race
Flywheel: Stock
Driveshaft: Sport
Differential: Race
Weight Reduction: Stock
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer: Stock
Wheel width: Stock
Wheel diameter: 19
Wheel make/model: Zender Dynamic
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 29/29
Gearing:
FD: 3.59
1: 3.25
2: 2.33
3: 1.80
4: 1.45
5: 1.22
6: 1.05
Alignment
-Camber F/R: -0.8 / -0.8
-Toe F/R: 0.0/ -0.2
-Caster: 5.5
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 12.69 / 11.23
Springs F/R: 484.1 / 309.7
Ride Height F/R: 4.5 / 4.5
Dampers (rebound): 8.2 / 7.8
Dampers (bump): 7.5 / 5.6
Downforce: 45 / 50
Braking
Balance: N/A
Pressure: N/A
Front Diff Accel: 60%
Front Diff Decel: 50%
D Class Peugeot 206 RC
Class: D 400 HP: 187 Torque:158 lb-ft Weight: 2166 lbs
Ratings: Speed: 4.1 Accel:3.1 Brake: 4.4 Cornering: 4.4 Rarity:
Info:
Some lap times:
Engine Mods
Intake: Street
Exhaust: Stock
Ign.: Stock
Fuel: Stock
Camshaft: stock
Block: stock
Intercooler: Stock
Turbo: Stock
Centrifugal S/C: Stock
Pos. Displ. S/C: Stock
Engine/Drivetrain swap: Stock
Chassis Mods
Brakes: Sport
Suspension: Race
Anti-roll bars: Race
Trans: Race
Clutch: Race
Flywheel: Race
Driveshaft: Race
Differential: Race
Weight Reduction: Sport
Tires
Tire compound/manufacturer:Street BFGoodrich
Wheel width: Stock
Wheel diameter: 19
Wheel make/model: Gram lights57C
Areo Mods
Front Bumper: Stock
Rear Bumper: Stock
Sides: Stock
Spoiler: Stock
Hood: Stock
Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 29/29
Gearing:
FD: 4.59
1: 4.17
2: 2.21
3: 1.52
4: 1.15
5: 0.97
6: 0.88
Alignment
Camber F/R: -0.8 / -0.8
Toe F/R: 0.0/ – 0.2
Caster: 5.6
Anti-roll Bar F/R: 7.42 /13.27
Springs F/R: 479.5 / 280.8
Ride Height F/R: 6.3 / 6.3
Dampers (rebound): 8.3 / 4.6
Dampers (bump): 4.1 / 2.3
Downforce: 0 / 0
Braking
Balance: N/A
Pressure: N/A
Diff
Front Diff Accel: 30%
Front Diff Decel: 0%
Posted in HINTS, TIPS AND TRICKS, TUNING GUIDES AND FULL TUNING, Uncategorized |
Tags: car list, cars, cheat, ffffo, forza 3, forza 3 hints, forza 3 info, forza 3 motorsport xbox october launching, forza 3 tips, forza 3 tricks, forza 3 wheel settings, forza racing guide, nürnburgring, sebring, suzuka, tracks, tuning, unlock, xbox |
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FORZA 3 CLASSES AND LISTS
All of Forza 3’s ten different classes explained and listed with the number of races and points you can gain per race.
• 1 Testing:
Designed mainly as an introduction to the various cars and style. You start out of course with the wonderfully responsive Audi R8 Quartro to get your skill level worked out, which the AI helps determine. You can still change this difficulty level, but the AI simply wants to see your skill levels, it then seems to work out the opponent difficulty for you, which helps a great deal. Your first main Test is then back into th “F Class” cars so you can work your way through the pack.
Testing:
- Asian Open – 3 Races – 6000 points
- European Open – 3 races – 6,600 points
- All American Open – 3 races – 6,600 points
- FWD Open – 3 races – 6,600 points
- RWD Open – 3 races – 6,600 points
- AWD Open – 3 races – 6,600 points
- 2 Door Challenge – 3 races – 6,800 points
- 3 Door Open – 3 races – 6,800 points
- 4 Door Open – 3 races – 6,800 points
- 5 Door Open – 3 races – 6,800 points
• 2 Amateur:
An area where you will build your experience with the different cars, working up the ladder towards the higher end cars. Do not be discouraged with these, or think that they are beneath you as a driver. A great deal of fun and most importantly, experience can be gained through constant playing of these classes.
Amateur 1:
- FWD Elite Open – 3 races – 12,900 points
- Asian Elite Open – 3 races – 12,400 points
- French Elite Open – 3 races – 12,000 points
- RWD Elite Invitational – 3 races – 12,700
- Mid-Engine Elite Open – 3 races – 11,600 points
- Nth American Elite Open – 3 races – 13,100 points
- German Elite Invitational – 3 races – 14,600 points
- British Elite Invitational – 3 races – 15,100
- AWD Elite Open – 3 races – 14,100 points
- Italian Elite Open – 3 races – 15,800 points
Amateur 2:
- Super Mini Road Test – 3 races – 11,500 points
- Coupe Road Test 1 – 3 races – 13,300 points
- Saloon Road Test 1 – 3 races – 11,700 points
- Hot Hatch Road Test – 3 races – 13,100 points
- SUV Road Test – 3 races – 12,200 points
- Coupe Road Test 2 – 3 races – 13,800 points
- Saloon Road Test 2 – 3 races – 14,600 points
- Coupe Road Test 2 – 3 races 13,200 points
- Supercar Road Test 3 races – 15,400 points
- Prototype Road Test – 3 races 16,100 points
Amateur 3:
- American Muscle Showdown – 3 races – 11,100 points
- Inline 4 Showcase – 3 races – 11,400 points
- Normal Aspiration Runoff – 3 races – 12,500 points
- Boosted Proving Grounds – 3 races – 13,500 points
- Six-Cyl Fast & Furious – 3 races – 12,700 points
- Ultralight Showdown – 3 races – 13,100 points
- Executive Car Open – 3 races – 14,300 points
- Eight-Cyl Supreme GT – 3 races – 13,600 points
- Ten-Cyl Salute – 3 races – 15,000 points
- Twelve-Cyl Flagship Trophy – 3 races – 14,300 points
• 3 Manufacturer:
Manufacturer 1:
- Integra Owners Meeting – 4 races – 22,900 points
- Hyundi Owners Meeting – 4 races – 21,100 points
- Mitshubishi Owners Meeting – 4 races – 22,700 points
- Skyline Owners Meeting – 4 races – 23,400 points
- Subaru Owners Meeting – 4 races – 21,500 points
- Honda Acura Owners Meeting – 4 races – 24,100 points
- Mazda Owners Meeting – 4 races – 23,800 points
- Fairlady 2 Cup – 4 races – 23,300 points
- Nissan Infiniti Owners Meeting – 4 races – 24,200 points
- Toyota Lexus Owners Meeting – 4 races – 23,700 points
Manufacturer 2:
- Peugeot Racing Club – 4 races – 20,600 points
- Sweden Racing Club – 4 races – 22,200 points
- V.Dub Racing Club – 4 races – 22,300 points
- Vahxall Racing CLub – 4 races – 24,200 points
- Lotus Racing Club – 4 races- 23,400 points
- SEAT Racing Club – 4 races – 23,300 points
- BMW Owners Club – 4 races – 22,900 points
- Audi Racing Club – 4 races – 25,800 points
- Mercedes- Benz Racing Club – 4 races – 25,800 points
- Porsche Racing Club – 4 races – 26,600 points
Manufacturer 3:
- Firebird T.A. Track Days – 4 races – 22,400 points
- Focus Track Days – 4 races – 22,000 points
- Chrysler Track Days – 4 races – 23,300 points
- Pontiac Track Days – 4 races – 23,500
- Mustang Track Days – 4 races – 24,100 points
- Ford Track Days – 4 races – 23,800 points
- Chevrolet Track Days – 4 races – 26,400 points
- Corvette Track Days – 4 races – 26,00o points
- Dodge Track Days – 4 races – 25,900 points
- Viper Track Days – 4 races – 26,400 points
Manufacturer 4:
- World Sub-Compact Shoot Out – 4 races – 20,500 points
- American Muscle Shoot Out – 4 races – 20,100 points
- Euro Hatch Shoot Out – 4 races – 21,400 points
- Lightweight Shoot Out – 4 races – 22,500 points
- German SUV Shoot Out – 4 races – 22,400 points
- JDM Imports – 990’s Shoot Out – 4 races – 21,800
- Speedstar Shoot Out – 4 races – 23,500 points
- Premium Sedan Shoot Out – 4 races – 25,100 points
- Prestigious Shoot Out – 4 races – 23,800 points
- Ultimate Speed Shoot Out – 4 races – 26,200 points
Manufacturer 5:
- Civic V’s Golf – 4 races – 22,100 points
- Celica V’s Silvia – 4 races – 22,300 points
- Tarmac Rally – 4 races – 22,300 points
- Mustang V’s Camaro – 4 races – 22,800 points
- Supra V’s Fairlady 2 – 4 races – 22,600 points
- German Sports Line Challenge – 4 races – 25,800 points
- NSX V’s Skyline – 4 races – 24,900 points
- Fastest Fleet Shoot Out – 4 races – 27,100 points
- Ferrari V’s Porsche – 4 races – 25,800 points
- Lamborginhi V’s Ferrai – 4 races – 26,500 points
• 4 Semi Professional:
Semi Pro 1:
- Puma 150 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 42,700 points
- Recaro 200 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 44,800 points
- Bilstein 250 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 46,500 points
- Toyo 300 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 49,300 points
- Sparco 350 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 48,900 points
- BBS 400 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 54,500 points
- Stoptech 450 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 54,900 points
- Bridgestone 500 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 50,700 points
- Motul 600 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 55,800 points
- K&N 700 BHP Run-Off – 5 races – 55,800 points
Semi Pro 2:
- Class F Pre-’00 Asian Tour – 5 races – 41,600 points
- Class F Post ‘00 Asian Tour – 5 races – 43,400 points
- Class E Pre ‘03 Asian Tour – 5 races – 45,200 points
- Class E Post ‘03 Asian Tour – 5 races – 45,800 points
- Class D Pre ‘00 Asian Tour – 5 races – 46,500 points
- Class D Post ‘00 Asian Tour – 5 races – 47,400 points
- Class C Asian Tour – 5 races – 49,400 points
- Class B Asian Tour – 5 races – 52,000 points
- C;ass S Asian Tour – 5 races – 58,000 points
- Class R2 Asian Tour – 5 races – 61,000 points
Semi Pro 3:
- Class F European Tour – 5 races – 41,000 points
- Class E European Tour – 5 races – 43,400 points
- Class D European Tour – 5 races – 45,000 points
- Class C European Tour – 5 races – 49,200 points
- Class B European Tour – 5 races – 47,900 points
- Class A European Tour – 5 races – 53,800 points
- Class S European Tour – 5 races – 53,700 points
- Class R3 European Tour – 5 races – 54,800 points
- Class R2 European Tour – 5 races – 59,000 points
- Class R1 European Tour – 5 races – 63,000 points
Semi Pro 4:
- Class F Nth American Your – 5 races – 44,700 points
- Class E Nth American Your – 5 races – 44,000 points
- Class D Nth American Your – 5 races – 46,900 points
- Calss C Nth American Your – 5 races – 47,200 points
- Class B Nth American Your – 5 races – 53,000 points
- Class A Nth American Your – 5 races – 56,000 points
- Class S Nth American Your – 5 races – 58,000 points
- Class R3 Nth American Your – 5 races – 63,000 points
- Class R2 Nth American Your – 5 races – 64,000 points
- Class R1 Nth American Your – 5 races – 66,000 points
• 5 Professional:
Professional 1:
- Yaris S Trophy – 6 races – 68,800 points
- MX5 Miata Trophy – 6 races – 72,000 points
- ABARTH 500 ESSEESES Trophy – 6 races – 79,000 points
- Mini John Cooper Works Cup – 6 races – 82,000 points
- Hyundi Geniesis Coupe Tour Trophy – 6 races – 83,000 points
- F355 Challenge Trophy Trophy – 6 races – 91,000 points
- Murcielago LP640 Trophy Trophy – 6 races – 65,000 points
- Porsche 911 GT3 Trophy Trophy – 6 races – 85,000 points
- Ferrari F430 Trophy Trophy – 6 races – 90,000 points
- FXX Trophy Trophy – 6 races – 101,000 points
Professional 2:
- Aussie Touring Car Championship – 6 race – 111,000 points
- Porsche 911 GT3 Showdown – 6 races – 111,000 points
- German Racing Car Showdown – 6 races – 110,000 points
- American GT3 Invitational – 6 races – 109,000 points
- GT3 Invitational – 6 races – 109,000 points
- GT2 Invitational – 6 races – 116,000 points
- Japanese Invitational – 6 races – 119,000 points
- Dream Machine – 6 races – 117,000 points
- GT1 Invitational – 6 races – 119,000 points
- LMP Invitational – 6 races – 116,000 points
Professional 3:
- Class F World Tour – 6 races – 84,000 points
- Class E World Tour – 6 races – 88,000 points
- Class D World Tour – 6 races – 99,000 points
- Class C World Tour – 6 races – 100,000 points
- Class B World Tour – 6 races – 110,000 points
- Class A World Tour – 6 races – 115,000 points
- Class S World Tour – 6 races – 114,000 points
- Class R3 World Tour – 6 races – 116,000 points
- Class R2 World Tour – 6 races – 126,000 points
- Class R1 World Tour – 6 races – 133,000 points
• 6 Speedway:
Speedway:
- Class F Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 18,800 points
- Class E Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 19,400 points
- Class D Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 20,600 points
- Class C Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 21,400 points
- Class B Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 22,500 points
- Class A Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 23,500 points
- Class S Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 23,700 points
- Class R3 Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 25,700 points
- Class R2 Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 25,900 points
- Class R1 Speedway Challenge – 6 races – 27,400 points
• 7 Drag Racing Heats:
Drag Races:
- 250 bhp FWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 1,890 points
- 300 bhp FWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 1,890 points
- 350 bhp RWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 1,890 points
- 400 bhp AWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 2,700 points
- 450 bhp RWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 2,700 points
- 500 bhp AWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 2,700 points
- 550 bhp AWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 2,700 points
- 600 bhp AWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 2,700 points
- 650 bhp RWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 2,700 points
- 700 bhp RWD Shoot Out – 3 races – 2,700 points
• 8 Closed circuit laps & races:
Closed circuit:
- Fujimi Kaido Class F Series – 4 races – 38,400 points
- Amalfi Coast Class E Series – 4 races – 29,000 points
- Nurburgring Class D Series – 4 races – 38,400 points
- Fujimi Kaido Class C Series – 4 races – 39,300 points
- Amalfi Coast Class B Series – 4 races – 29,100 points
- Nurnurgring Class A Series – 4 races – 38,400 points
- Fujimi Kaido Class S Series – 4 races – 39,000 points
- Amalfi Coast Class R3 Series – 4 races – 27,900 points
- Nurburgring Class R2 Series – 4 races – 38,400 points
- Fujimi Kaido Class R1 Series – 4 races – 38,700 points
Closed circuit – Lap Days:
- Class F Lap Days – 3 races – 34,400 points
- Class E Lap Days – 3 races – 34,500 points
- Class D Lap Days – 3 races – 34,500 points
- Class C Lap Days – 3 races – 34,400 points
- Class B Lap Days – 3 races – 34,500 points
- Class A Lap Days – 3 races – 34,500 points
- Class S Lap Days – 3 races – 34,400 points
- Class R3 Lap Days – 3 races – 34,400 points
- Class R2 Lap Days – 3 races – 34,500 points
- Class R1 Lap Days – 3 races – 34,400 points
• 9 Full-on Endurance Races:
Endurance:
- 34 Lap Road Atlanta – 1 race – 72,000 points
- 130 klm Circuit de Catalunya – 1 race – 74,000 points
- 134 klm Twin RIng Mojetgi – 1 race – 83,000 points
- 160 klm Silverstone Gran Prix – 1 race – 88,000 points
- 32 Lap Mugello – 1 race – 92,000 points
- 169 klm Suzuka Circuit – 1 race – 92,000 points
- 31 Lap Sebring International Raceway – 1 race – 99,000 points
- 128 mil Road America – 1 race – 110,000 points
- 17 Laps Circuit de la Sarthe – 1 race – 110,000 points
- 187 klm Nurburgring Nordschleife – 1 race – 110,000 points
• 10 Top of the Ladder Championships:
Championships:
- Class F World Championships – 3 races – 18,200 points
- Class E World Championships – 3 races – 23,900 points
- Class D World Championships – 4 races – 36,600 points
- Class C World Championships – 5 races – 53,000 points
- Class B World Championships – 6 races – 82,000 points
- Class A World Championships – 7 races – 106,000 points
- Class S World Championships – 8 races – 157,000 points
- Class R3 World Championships – 9 races – 216,000 points
- Class R2 World Championships – 11 races – 314,000 points
- Class R1 World Championships – 13 races – 428,000 points
Make sure you come back for an even more detailed breakdown soon, we will have a downloadable and printable PDF for each set of races or class, so you can find out, the tracks, number of laps and points gained for each race.
Our next set of Forza 3 details will be dealing with various racing tips for each track, as well as some driving tips for the Novice, Intermediate and Expert drivers. Dealing with such things as Assists, Gears, slight changes to the Optimised Auto-Upgrades and several other great Forza 3 tips-n-tricks.
The main thing is to have fun, but also to hone your skills so that you get the best you can from not only Forza 3, but any decent racing game. Our aim is that you will walk away from the experience much more informed, and also with a greater respect for the game, and the work Turn 10 have put into the game.
Personally I’m looking forward to the next lot of Downloadable Content, and seeing the creations that come from the Forza 3 community. The game has its bugs, all games do. There’s no such thing as the “perfect” game or a game without flaws. They all have them. Forza 3 has its share, but they do not distract from the overall experience of the gameplay or the game in general
Posted in GAME REVIEWS, COMPARISON AND GUIDE, GENERAL, Uncategorized |
Tags: car list, cars, cheat, ffffo, forza 3, forza 3 hints, forza 3 info, forza 3 motorsport xbox october launching, forza 3 tips, forza 3 tricks, forza 3 wheel settings, forza racing guide, nürnburgring, sebring, suzuka, tracks, tuning, unlock, xbox |
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FORZA 3 Carrer Help Guide
Forza 3 would have to have the biggest selection of races available in any known racing game to date.
With 730 races, (no, I have yet to work out exactly how many laps that is, but I’m working on it…that will be in Tips #2), which are spread over a massive 220 events from 10 different categories or series ranging from 50 different real life race circuits as well as fictional tracks based on real life locations in places such as Italy, Germany, France, Nth America, England, Japan and Spain. I think you’ll need a Tourist Visa!
What we will be doing here is hopefully help you go through and use the Events Listing which you can use to help build your Experience Level (XP) and thus gain more credits (CR), as well as win some more neat cars (Veyron). We will also discuss the various cars to use in the different classes that will give you not only a great chance at working your way through Forza 3, but help you enjoy the experience along the way.
Get all testie on the Benchmark High Speed Test Ring We will also look at which cars to start off learning how to us “Assists Off” function, as well as the advanced Manual & Clutch gear changes which help gain you more credits.
By having most of the assists off, as some cars actually need them on to be tractable (drivable), you can gain an increase of your points of as much as 75% which certainly helps build those Experience Points (XP) up and also get those credits piling up in your account to start upgrading.
But like all things, you have to start – well – at the beginning, funny that, so let’s start with the different races and progress from there shall we. Naturally we’ll try and get as much stuff as possible in, but this will need to be spread across several postings and pages with updates, tips (OZ’s Forza 3 Tips), guides and general knowledge on the gameplay mechanics, some tuning tips and much more.
As you can see from the image above at the start of the page, (click to see full size) there are a great deal of events, and of course races.
I have found the Events List section very useful in getting races done and moving forward. I’m currently on Driver Experience Level 35/50 and my next is 40/50, yet only completed 15% of the career mode.
OZ’z first Forza 3 main tip – FPV
Close to windscreen view point – okay, but not the best. First Person Viewpoint. I’ve always played the game, or any real racing game or semi-sim through the in-car view, or, if not available, the closest to the screen view as possible. – Why? – realism!
Many find it difficult, citing inability to see ahead properly (well dahh, have you driven a car), sun-glare (yep, that gives it more real-life effects), poor vision on corners (no, really?!), other cars location to you (you don’t say), and more often than not, the inability to see YOU racing in your nice shinny car (poor didums).
Racing isn’t about seeing what “you look like” – It’s about driving at your best without knocking everyone out of the way to get ahead, or seeing how much damage you can deliver to your car, and others.
Anyone want to race me, and it has to be with in-car view locked, manual gears and most assists off, depending on car being used. while I’m not up at the top of the ladder, and probably never will be. But I am still in the top 1% of the leaderboard in Circuit in Class A, top 2% in Class S with varying % in other classes so far.
This is due mainly due to the fact I feel more in this viewpoint than I do in any other, I “focus” on what lays ahead, which is what a driver should be doing, and I can scope the road and track out behind and ahead of me, and have a better feel for the race in general, especially in longer races and Enduros.
In Drivers view (Cockpit or In-Car-View), the cars actually sound more realistic, the road sounds are more realistic, even down to the gravel crushing under tyres, track poles being clipped, rumble strips picking you up on corners, gauging ‘braking markers’, the sound of witches hats popping as you run over them (by mistake of course), and most importantly, the ability to use the engine and gear sound to determine the moment to change gears and the sense of speed needed in such a game.
The Lolly-Pop Viewpoint – totally ‘un-real’ – Oh look, lovely trees! Try it, especially at the beginning with the slower cars so that you get used to it, and you’ll find it becomes much more natural, and much more responsive than in the 3rd person lolly-pop view, which always has a much more artificial feel and responsiveness to it.
Try it in both views, and see and feel the differences, you’ll be surprised.
Plus, think about this for a second – have you EVER driven a car flying on a magic carpet about the car – no – didn’t think so
Forza 3 Career Mode Hints & Tips
Your First Car
The good news: You don’t have to spend a dime on your first car. The bad news: Your selection is pretty weak. None of the cars offered at first could be considered fast, and some are among the most loathsome cars on the market. But two cars stand out above other others. Both the Ford Fiesta and the Honda Fit have some semblance of performance legitimacy, sporting eager handling characteristics and light weight. No, they’re not fast in a straight line, but neither is your competition. Pick one of those two cars to start and you’ll be headin’ the right direction.
Dont Waste Money on Upgrades
As you start winning races, you may get eager to spend money on upgrades. Fight this urge. Your first car will become very useless very quickly, so it’s not worth putting money into it. Early in the game, you earn so many free cars and move between such a variety of race events that money spent on upgrades is essentialy wasted. Save your cash, because eventually you will need to buy something.
Use Free Cars
Continuing the theme of fiscal conservatism, we advise you not spend money on new cars unless necessary. Through at least the first two race seasons, you can use the cars you earn from leveling up your driver to compete in more and more events. Do your best to pretend that you don’t have any money to spend on new cars—the longer you ignore your bankroll, the bigger it’ll get. You’ll need the money eventually when events require new and better cars that you can’t simply earn.
Pick Events Wisely
In order to get by in the game’s career mode without spending money frivolously, you’ll need to be careful about the events you choose to fill out your calendar. When you’re tasked with filling out your calendar, view the specifics of each potential event. Note which events earn you the most money per race, and which require vehicles you don’t already own. Even if you’ve got a car that’s eligible, it may not be fit for competition. For example, we weren’t paying attention and entered a high speed circuit event—while our car was competitive on tight courses with lots of turns, it maxed out at a low top speed and had no chance of winning.
Assists & Difficulties
When you first start the game, you’re asked a vague question about how serious you want your racing experience. Your answer to the question dictates the various racing assists that are enabled for you by default, but you can make adjustments to these settings once you’re on the main career mode menu (choose “Set Difficulty”). By disabling assists, you can boost the amount of money you earn from every race, which helps not only your bank account but also your driver level. Some of the assists are very helpful, but some are very expendable. Here’s a quick breakdown of the lot.
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FORZA 3 PARTS GUIDE
The below chart gives an overview of how each purchased upgrade will affect your class rating.
Key
| - | + | ++ | +++ | ++++ | Effect | |
| . | -001 ~ -005 |
+001 ~ +015 |
+016 ~ +040 |
+041 ~ +090 |
+091 ~ +200 |
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Posted in GAME REVIEWS, COMPARISON AND GUIDE, Uncategorized |
Tags: car list, cars, cheat, forza 3, forza 3 motorsport xbox october launching, nürnburgring, sebring, suzuka, tracks, tuning, unlock, xbox |
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FORZA 3: FULL TUNING, this will increase your performance!
The benefits of tuning a stock vehicle for the race track can be huge. Best of all, adjustments to your car’s tuning do not affect your car’s class rating. Since these changes don’t affect your class rating, you can use tuning to improve the performance of your vehicle beyond the limits of your competition.
TIRES
Adjusting your tire pressure is a good, simple way to improve the cornering performance of your vehicle. Stock tire pressure is generally tuned for comfort rather than raw conering ability. When you take a new vehicle to the track, you should always make some adjustments to the tire pressure, usually increasing the pressure to all four tires to improve responsiveness and reduce tire roll in the corners.
However, take note that too much inflation can give you the opposite effect. An over-inflated tire will bow out in the center, reducing the contact surface. This effect is maximized as the tires heat up and the air inside expands, increasing the psi level. If you’ve reached the effectiveness limit of inflation, try reducing tire pressure to similarly affect the grip levels of your tires. If your FWD car is understeering, especially as the race wears on and the tires heat up, lower the front tire pressure to keep the contact surface flat.
Lowering tire pressure gives the tire more pliability, allowing it to conform to the ground and increase the overall contact patch with the asphalt. Accordingly, lowering tire pressure can help straight acceleration. But low pressure comes with negative side effects that become evident during cornering, as the more pliable tire rolls under lateral acceleration and gives you sloppy handling.
One thing to remember is that a little adjustment goes a long way. Differences of just a few psi between wheels can have a big effect, so don’t get extreme with the adjustments.
GEARING
Gearing ratios determine how many turns of the driveshaft result in a single turn of the wheels (the car’s wheels, not your steering wheel). A higher ratio (e.g. 3:1) makes it easier for the engine to rev high and reach max horsepower output quickly, but minimizes the top end speed of the gear. The effect of high gear ratios is quick acceleration with a sacrifice to top speed. A low gear ratio (e.g. 0.8:1) is harder for the engine to turn but improves top-end speed in that gear. The effect of a low ratio is slow acceleration with high top speed.
Lower gears should have higher ratios, while higher gears should gradually move to lower ratios. Sudden drops in the ratios between gears (e.g. having a first gear ratio of 3:1 and a second gear ratio of 1:1) will make it difficult to keep your engine revving within its peak power band. Most engines make the most power in the upper limits of their rev range (like between 4,000 RPM and 6,500 RPM). If the jump between two gear ratios is too large, your engine will drop too many revs on the upshift, dropping below the optimal powerband. This drop in revs will make for slow acceleration until you can muscle the revs back to their peak power.
Imagine a curved line on the gearing graph that connects the right edges of the ratios for each gear. A gradual curve will make it easier to keep your engine revving within its optimal RPM range. However, a curve too dull will restrict the range of your gear ratios. A sharper turn will naturally give you more range between gear ratios, but as we mentioned earlier it may also cause the engine RPMs to drop too much between upshifts. Experiment with your car to find its peak power band and adjust the gears to keep your revs within that RPM range while giving you the acceleration or top speed you need for a given track.
Quick Acceleration and less end speed High top speed, slower acceleration
Many tracks will not allow you to reach the maximum speed of your vehicle. In these cases, it’s a good idea to increase your gear ratios to improve your acceleration. Other tracks, however, are all about top speed. On these tracks, it’s worth sacrificing some acceleration by lowering your gear ratios to make for better top-end speed.
ALIGNMENT
There are three categories of alignment you can adjust: camber, toe and front caster. Each setting should be adjusted only slightly between testings to avoid dramatic changes to handling. As well, these settings can negatively affect tire wear, so consider running different setups on longer races where tire wear is a factor.
CAMBER
Camber deals with the tilt of the wheels when viewed from the face of the car. Wheels with the tops tilted inward have negative camber, while wheels with the tops tilted outward have positive camber. There’s generally no racing application for positive camber, though some degree of negative camber can help cornering. As the car hits hard into a corner, centrifugal force will naturally roll the weight of the vehicle outwards. Negative camber helps keep the tire flat on the asphalt during this weight transfer. However, too much negative camber will prevent the tires from sitting flat during straight acceleration and braking, reducing grip in those situations
TOE
Toe is the tilted angle of the wheels when viewed from above the car. Positive toe moves the fronts of the wheels inward together, while negative toe has the fronts of the wheels pointed outward, away from each other. The effects of toe are limited, other than affecting tire wear, though a little positive toe can give the characteristic of understeer, while a little negative toe can give the characteristic of oversteer.
CASTER
Caster is the angle of the steering relative to the wheels. Imagine the front forks on a bicycle wheel. Typically, the front forks point forwards from the handle bars (the steering). This angle of the steering, in both bicycles and cars, is known as positive caster.
Positive caster will naturally center the direction of the wheels, lending some stability to straight-line driving. As well, some degree of positive caster can help in cornering. During hard cornering, the suspension of the front wheels compresses and the wheels naturally take on a negative camber which, as we described earlier, helps grip in the corners. This effect is enhanced by positive caster.
However, too much positive caster will make the car fight cornering. Because of the natural tendency of wheels with positive caster to center themselves, too much positive caster will make a fight of turning the wheels into corners.
ANTI ROLL BARS
Anti-roll bars increase the vehicle’s rigidity and stability under hard cornering by effectively tying together the left and right sides of the vehicle. Hard corners will cause the body of a car to roll away from the turn. You can adjust the stiffness of anti-roll bars to counter the body roll and tweak the cornering characteristics of your vehicle.
Generally, increasing front anti-roll bar stiffness will also increase the tendency to understeer. Conversely, increasing the stiffness of the rear anti-roll bars will increase the tendency to oversteer. It’s a good idea to tweak the stiffness to an even level that suits the vehicle before adjusting for understeer or oversteer. When it comes time for the fine-tuning, it’s often better to soften the anti-roll bars to correct understeer and oversteer rather than stiffen. If the anti-roll bars are too stiff, you’ll get some instability on rough roads and hairiness in tight corners where the inside tires may lift off the ground.
SPRINGS
Most vehicles come from the factory with fairly soft springs made to deal with rough public roads. On the track, however, the range of lumpy road surfaces is much narrower. The generally smoother track surfaces make suspension stiffening a very helpful adjustment in the corners. However, like all things in tuning, too much of anything will negatively impact your lap times.
Stiffer suspension will better control suspension travel and the always-changing nature of your wheel camber. By holding wheel camber more constant, you can effectively keep the tires flat against the pavement for improved grip. Too much suspension travel will cause the camber angle to change—since suspension does not travel straight upward, but rather in an arc—which will result in vastly different levels of grip depending on the weight balance of the vehicle at any given moment.
Though as we mentioned, too much suspension stiffness can be a bad thing. Too-stiff suspension will not have the travel necessary to properly deal with imperfections in the road surface. Slight bumps in the road will then cause the tires to skip and lose traction. As such, stiffening the front suspension too much can cause understeer, while stiffening the rear suspension too much can cause oversteer. Conversely, you can reduce understeer and oversteer by softening the front and rear suspension, respectively.
As suspension load increases, the wheel travels into the vehicle in an upward arc. Too much travel (from too soft suspension) results in vastly different wheel camber depending on suspension load.
RIDE HEIGHT
Ride height is another adjustment you can make to the suspension. Generally, you want as low a ride height as possible without bottoming out the suspension on rough roads and under heavy weight transfer. However, balancing the front and rear ride height can let you play with your vehicle’s center of gravity. A higher ride height in the rear will shift the car’s center of gravity forward, which may help front tire grip.
DAMPING
While spring stiffness determines how much travel is in the suspension, dampers, also known as shocks, control the rate at which a vehicle’s springs oscillate. Picture hitting a large bump at high speed in a standard road-going vehicle. After the bump, the car’s suspension will continue to oscillate, bouncing up and down as the springs settle back down to their normal state. While this oscillation is good for driver comfort on public roads, it’s not so desirable on the race track. The fluctuating weight balance during such oscillation can make tire grip unsteady, fluctuating with the suspension travel.
Stiffer shocks will control the oscillation of the suspension for a steadier weight balance. As well, stiffer springs will increase the speed of weight transfer, letting you more quickly and predictably redistribute the weight of the car with acceleration and braking. However, too-stiff shocks can overpower the springs, reducing their effectiveness at dealing with imperfections in the road and contributing to a loss of traction on uneven road surfaces, including bumps, dips and rumble strips.
AERO
Aerodynamic downforce acts as added weight, pushing down on either end of the vehicle to enhance the traction of the tires. Note that the effect of downforce increases with speed, and at low speeds downforce has little if any effect. Add downforce to the front of the car and you’ll effectively give the front tires some added traction at speed. Add downforce to the rear of the car and you’ll boost the grip of the rear tires at speed.
However, the benefits of downforce come at a cost. As we said, downforce effectively adds weight to the vehicle, which limits top-end speed and acceleration. Increase downforce sparingly to correct for understeer and oversteer tendencies, especially in powerful rear-wheel-driven vehicles that tend to break loose over sweeping high-speed turns.
BREAKING
Generally, you want braking to be even between the front and rear wheels. However, as you make changes via upgrades and other tuning, you may offset the balance of braking. If you find that the vehicle tends to understeer or oversteer under braking, you may have a braking imbalance.
You can correct for some amount of braking oversteer by moving the braking balance forward. Conversely, you can correct some understeer by moving the braking balance rearward. Too much braking balance to the rear, however, will upset stability under braking, while too much forward braking will contribute to understeer. Look for a neutral balance in the braking so that you feel neither understeer nor unsteady oversteer under hard braking conditions.
DIFFERENTIAL
A differential splits power between the left and right halves of a car’s driven axle(s) and allows either half of the axle to rotate at a different speed than the other. Letting both axle halves rotate independently—thus rotating the two wheels at different speeds—is necessary for maintaining traction in a turn. In corners, the wheel on the inside will naturally rotate less than the wheel on the outside as the inside wheel travels a shorter distance. Without the allowed slip of a differential, the wheels would be locked into the same rotational speed and either the inside or the outside wheel would skip and lose traction.
Notice that the line on the inside of the turn—where the inside wheel travels—is much shorter than the line on the outside of the turn, where the outside wheel travels. Because of this difference in distance, a differential is required to allow the wheels to spin at different speeds to maintain optimal traction.
Performance vehicles have a special type of differential, called limited-slip. A limited-slip differential (LSD) does what it says—it limits the slip allowed by the differential. Remember, the slip of the differential is what allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds. However, there is a limit to this benefit, and an LSD helps by locking the rotation of both wheels at a certain level of slip. Slip is good for cornering, but not for acceleration and braking.
When traveling in a straight line, as in under hard acceleration or braking, you want both wheels rotating at the same speed. A limited-slip differential makes this happen. Increasing the acceleration and deceleration rates of the differential will make the LSD lock the wheels together sooner. Decreasing the rates will allow for more differential slip before the LSD kicks in.
Increasing the acceleration rate of the differential in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle will tend to make more oversteer as you exit a corner, hard on the accelerator. Increasing the acceleration rate of the differential in a front-wheel-drive vehicle will, conversely, contribute to added understeer as you accelerate out of a corner, as the wheels lock together and begin to lose traction under acceleration. Too low a setting in either drivetrain configuration will result in decreased acceleration and braking efficiency. Keep the LSD settings relatively high without adding to your vehicle’s natural tendency to oversteer or understeer. If you find the car tends to lose traction to the powered wheels as you accelerate out of a corner, consider lowering the setting of the LSD.
PICKING UPGRADES
When purchasing upgrades, it’s pretty obvious which parts are better. The more the cost, the higher the gains and the further to the right on the list they are, the better the parts—that’s a no brainer. But what makes part choosing difficult is trying to stay within car class restrictions. As you purchase upgrades for your vehicle, you affect the class rating of the car. Higher class vehicles will naturally be better performers than others, but many races restrict how high your class can be. If a particular race limits you to racing C-Class vehicles only, you’ll want to put together the beefiest C-Class car you can muster without taking the upgrades too far and bringing the car to a B-Class.
Generally speaking, the upgrades that most affect your vehicle class are power upgrades, weight reduction and changing tires to a stickier compound. Upgrades to other areas of your vehicle will generally result in very minor changes to your class rating (sometimes none at all), though that doesn’t make their effects less valuable. For example, upgrading your brakes hardly affects your class rating, but having a better set of stoppers can dramatically improve your lap times.
Carefully choose upgrades that will only minorly affect your class rating. If you find that you’ve broken the limit of your class, you can remove some upgrades or make some upgrades that negatively impact your class rating. Making changes to a number of Body and Aero parts will actually drop your class rating slightly. And while these changes may hurt your top-end speed, it won’t matter on most courses—in fact, you may gain a decent handling boost in the upgrade.
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Forza 3 DRIVING AID
Real racing is a very complicated affair, but it boils down to three basic essentials: braking, accelerating, and cornering
BREAKING:
If you think braking is as simple as mashing the brake button (or brake pedal), it’s time to snap to reality. Braking is as important, if not more so, than accelerating when it comes to realistic, technical racing. Poor braking can dramatically affect your lap times. Proper braking technique, conversely, will set you up to swing through corners drama-free and ready to peg the accelerator at the soonest moment possible.
As a general rule, combining braking inputs with steering inputs will result in oversteer, often to catastrophic effect. In simpler terms, don’t brake while turning. Braking is much more effective when done in a straight line, scrubbing off speed much faster than braking while turning. If you try braking during a hard corner, you’ll effectively divide the potential grip of your tires between turning and braking. This division of grip results in both poor turning and poor braking. If you’re braking during a turn, you’ve waited far too long before using the brakes.
Since you undoubtedly need to drive through turns slower than the straights that precede turns, treat braking as a necessary preparation for turning. As you approach a turn—well before entering the actual corner—apply the brakes while making as few steering wheel corrections as necessary. If you time your braking properly, you’ll have slowed down enough that you can ease through the corner without further need of the brakes.
ACCELERATION
Much like braking, acceleration doesn’t often mix well with cornering. The effect of acceleration on cornering is highly dependent on your vehicle’s drivetrain (see our TUNING section for more details), but the general rule is the same. By accelerating during a turn, you effectively divide the potential grip of your tires between two functions, acceleration and turning. In some cars, this results in understeer, during which the turning potential of the car is compromised, and instead of turning as sharply as possible the car will push toward the outside of the turn. In other vehicles, oversteer is induced, during which the tail end of the car swings out, making the vehicle more difficult to control in the turn and crippling acceleration potential.
That said, there are very few times when you can use the accelerator without touching the steering. The lesson here is not that you should never steer and accelerate at the same time, but rather that you need to understand the effects of combining the two actions. The real lesson here is to practice moderation. If you’re deep into a turn with the steering cranked to the extreme, pegging the accelerator is only going to ruin your turn. It may not be obvious in theory, but think of the opposite action: If you’re running pedal-to-the-metal down a long straight, cranking the steering wheel left or right is going to severely wreck your acceleration (and probably more).
How you moderate your acceleration should be directly related to how hard you’re steering. Through a slight right bend, you can ease the steering a little right without stepping off the accelerator. If, however, you’ve just slowed down for a sharp hairpin, you’ll want to only feather the accelerator as you crank the steering to maintain the modest speed you’ve set up for the corner.
After you’ve navigated a turn and pointed the car straight, center the steering and nail the gas to get out of the corner. In a perfect racing line, it’s okay if your acceleration out of the turn results in minor understeer that pulls the car away from the apex and to the outside of the corner. Use the full width of the course to keep the straightest line possible when accelerating out of a bend.
TURNING
Now that you’ve got a basic understanding of the effects of braking and acceleration on your ability to turn the car, it’s time to understand a key principle to cornering: Slow in, fast out.
The gist of the principle applies to every corner you take. Exiting the corner at the highest possible speed is the ultimate goal of every turn. If you’re fast out of a corner, you’ll carry that speed into the following straight. But in order to exit a corner at the highest possible speed, it’s necessary to enter the corner slowly.
As we explained earlier, before entering a corner, you want to apply the brakes as you approach your turn. From inside the corner, feather the throttle lightly, just enough to maintain a constant, low speed. Turn into the corner and aim the car for the corner’s apex (more on this later). Once you’ve made it through the meat of the turn, center the steering and nail the accelerator to get out of the corner as fast as possible.
When approaching a corner, you typically want to brake along the outside edge of the turn. Doing so will allow you to cut a gradual turn toward the apex. If you come into a corner from the inside of the track, you’ll effectively reduce the radius of the turn, resulting in a loss of speed through the corner (and out of it). A more gradual turn radius, started from the outside of the track, will allow you to maintain a higher speed while adhering to your racing line.
The apex of the turn is the point in your racing line that comes closest to the inside of the turn. Typically this is where you transition from turning to straightening the car for acceleration out of the corner. Visualizing the proper apex will give you an idea of what your racing line should look like through a particular corner.
After hitting the apex on the inside of the turn, let your acceleration pull the car back toward the outside of the turn. Use the full width of the course to cut as straight a path as possible as you exit the corner. Staying straight as possible will let you accelerate more effectively, adhering to the original mantra: Slow in, fast out.
WEIGHT TRANSFER
Now that you’ve got a basic understanding of proper driving technique, it’s time to look a bit more in-depth into the physical mechanics at play in high-speed racing. Weight distribution and weight transfer concern the effects of weight balance on the handling dynamics of your vehicle. These dynamics are always changing as you race, as everything you do affects the distribution of weight in your vehicle.
When the vehicle is at a complete stop, its weight balance is at its most neutral. A perfectly balanced car will have a 50/50 weight balance, with half of the car’s weight pushing down on the front wheels and the other half of the weight holding down the rear wheels. While only a few cars actually achieve a perfect weight balance, this general idea applies.
Naturally, the weight balance of a non-moving car is instantly changed the moment the vehicle kicks into motion. Upon acceleration, the weight balance is shifted backward. As the car lunges forward, the front end of the vehicle lifts while the tail end of the vehicle dips down. This shift in the weight balance dramatically affects the grip of the tires. Under hard acceleration, the front tires lose grip while the rear tires gain traction from the added weight. As acceleration slows, weight balance gradually returns to a more neutral state.
The opposite effect can be seen under hard braking. As a car brakes hard, the nose of the car dips down while the tail tends to lift. In this situation, the weight balance of the car is shifted forward. The front tires of the car gain traction from the additional weight while the rear of the car loses some grip potential as the pressure of the weight shifts away from those wheels. This shift in weight balance is why a car’s front wheels handle most of the braking.
As weight balance transfers fore and aft of the car, dynamics such as cornering ability and grip for acceleration are affected. The effects of weight transfer vary depending on the drivetrain type of the vehicle. For more details on the specifics, keep reading.
VEHICLE DRIVE TRAIN TYPES
The main components of a vehicle’s drivetrain that relate to weight distribution and transfer are the position of the engine and the wheels that are powered by it. Many low-end economy cars are front-engine, front-wheel-drive, while sportier rides tend to favor the front-engine, rear-wheel drive setup. There are also mid-engine arrangements and all-wheel-drive vehicles. Each variation affects the handling and acceleration dynamics of vehicles.
ENGINE PLACEMENT
The placement of a vehicle’s engine directly affects the weight balance of a car. A front-engine vehicle will tend to have a frontal weight bias. While this may help give the front wheels traction during cornering, it may also result in too little weight holding down the rear end of the car. Under extreme speed, this lack of traction in the rear quarters of the car may result in oversteer, as the tail end breaks loose and kicks out ahead of the front wheels. Still, you’ll find the vast majority of vehicles have their engines located at the front of the car, from econoboxes like the Chevrolet Cobalt to performance powerhouses like the Corvette Z06.
Conversely, you’ll find very few vehicles with a rear-engine arrangement. Pretty much only Porsche is crazy enough to put their engines at the far rear end of their 911 (some Volkswagens do it, too). The added weight to the rear may help keep the rear tires planted during acceleration, but may also contribute to oversteer if the weight is pushed too far in a corner. As well, having the weight of the engine at the back of the car tends to eliminate understeer. More commonly though, you’ll find vehicles with a mid-engine arrangement. Though the engine is still located aft of the driver, it’s positioned more toward the center of the vehicle, in front of the rear axle. This mid-engine arrangement gives a vehicle the benefit of improved weight balance. Vehicles like the Lotus Elise and Ferrari F430 have this mid-engine arrangement.
Front Wheel Drive 
A front-wheel-drive (FWD) car has engine power delivered to the front wheels. The benefit of this setup is easy, simple control that’s difficult to lose. Front-wheel-drive vehicles are great cars to start with because they’re typically not as rowdy as other drivetrain setups. A mistake in a FWD vehicle will generally result in manageable understeer, rather than out-of-control oversteer. The downside is that the FWD setup is inherently detrimental to acceleration.
As we discussed earlier, as a vehicle accelerates its weight balance transfers to the rear wheels. As the weight shifts away from the front wheels, those front wheels lose traction. Since the acceleration of a front-wheel-drive car is dependent on the traction of the front wheels, this weight transfer limits acceleration. Also, high-powered FWD vehicles tend to suffer from torque steer. As the front tires share the responsibilities of both acceleration and steering, there’s a real chance that quick acceleration off the line can tug the steering left or right. As such, you’ll find that few performance-minded cars have FWD drivetrains
REAR WHEEL DRIVE
The vast majority of performance vehicles are rear-wheel-drive (RWD). The inherent strength of RWD is clear when you understand weight transfer. As we explained, under acceleration the weight balance of a car shifts backward, pushing down on the rear wheels. This added weight means added traction, a must for quick acceleration both off the line and out of corners.
The downside to rear-wheel-drive is that it tends to be more difficult to control than other drivetrains. Hop into a powerful RWD vehicle like the Corvette Z06 and you’ll quickly become familiar with the monster known as oversteer. During cornering, application of the throttle will tend to break traction to the rear wheels and send the rear end of the vehicle scooting out ahead of the front wheels. In road racing, this is never a good thing. Not only does the loss of traction to the rear wheels result in reduced speed, but it’s also potentially dangerous. Unchecked oversteer can quickly send your car into a spin and off the track.
Despite the learning curve for RWD vehicles, this drivetrain setup is generally regarded as the best for road racing application. Skilled drivers can work with the driving characteristics of rear-drive vehicles for an optimal balance of control and speed.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
In all-wheel-drive (AWD) vehicles, engine power is delivered to all wheels of the car, though usually not all at once. AWD vehicles have a sort of inherent, if not simple, traction control system. Most typical, low-end AWD vehicles will favor power delivery to the front wheels. However, if the car senses that the powered wheels lose traction, the car’s computer automatically transfers the power away from the low-traction tires to other tires that do have plenty of traction.
The benefit of AWD is especially apparent during hard acceleration off the line. As the car’s computer shifts power to the wheels with the most grip, AWD vehicles really hook up with the asphalt and go. All-wheel-drive strengths are even more pronounced in compromised driving conditions, like driving on a wet track or driving in dirt. The benefits are also helpful in corners where power-on oversteer is minimized by the car’s computer wizardry.
Because of the smart characteristics of an AWD drivetrain, all-wheel-drive vehicles have many of the performance benefits of a RWD setup while maintaining the easy controlability of FWD setups. However, there are some compromises. Like FWD vehicles, AWD cars tend to suffer understeer more than their RWD rivals. As well, all-wheel-drive drivetrains add weight and mechanical complexity to cars, neither of which are desirable in real-life road racing. Still, AWD vehicles present a solid balance between rear- and front-wheel-drive vehicles and should definitely be considered by neophyte racers.
GENERAL TIPS
Another motto: outside – inside – outside
By now you’re familiar with the motto slow in, fast out. That helps you decide when and where to brake and accelerate through a turn, but it doesn’t cover the line you should take through the turn. While each bend is unique, this generally applies: outside, inside, outside. Start the turn from the outside edge of the track, move in toward the inside edge to hit the apex, and then let the car move back toward the outside edge as you exit the corner and accelerate away.
Aim for the Rumble Strip:
Note the red and white rumble strips that often line the edges of a race track. These strips generally run along the edge of the course that racers are most likely to be hugging. While that may seem inconsequential, you can use the locations of the rumble strips as makeshift waypoints forming a preferred racing line. If you’re hugging the inside of a turn without a rumble strip, chances are you’ve missed the corner’s proper apex. Try to stick to the outside edges of the course when the rumble strips are present and turn in so that your apexes coincide with the inside rumble strips
Gas and Break in Moderation
By far the most important thing for new players to learn is moderation. Your gas and brake pedals are analog, not digital—use them as such. If you mash the brake pedal all the way, you can lock your tires and lose control. As well, simply mashing the gas pedal all the time is counter-productive. Though you should always practice moderation in your gas and brake application, it is especially important to do so while cornering. Heavy gassing or braking in mid-corner is never a good thing.
Sliding is Bad
Racing is a constant battle for traction. If your tires are sliding, you’ve lost the battle. Sliding is never a good thing in road racing (it can be helpful on dirt, but that doesn’t apply in Forza). Listen to your tires to gauge the limits of their grip. If you start to hear the tires break loose, ease off the accelerator or brakes to maintain control and speed.